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Machine World Extension
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British V6 YDS 7A Font
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Puppy Dome
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Battle of the Bulge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Do or Fly T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grenade Launcher T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Horseshoes and Handgrenades T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Log, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Machine World 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A |
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Machine World Extension 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a V6 7A |
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Puppy Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Boulder |
| FA: | Dale Bard, I believe |
| Page Views: | 1,061 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Conor Clarke on Sep 8, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
There are several ways to start and extend the classic Machine World. Here, I’ve described what I believe is the most popular and aesthetic variation to the problem.
Location
Start about fifteen feet left of the usual Machine World jug start on a lefthand sloper and righthand crimp, with a large, high shelf for the left foot. Make delicate moves right with poor feet to a few difficult (and unfortunately somewhat dabby) moves rounding the corner to join the starting jugs of Machine World. Then climb Machine World.
Nota Bene: The first edition of Charlie Barrett’s Tuolumne Meadows Bouldering (2014) seems to list the extension start as the start for the original V3. (“Stand start on the left side of the wall about 10 feet before the steep section.”) This is either a minor error or an inspired effort at sandbagging -- it would surely make this the hardest V3 in Yosemite! For me, the extended problem is roughly comparable in difficulty to the Sentinel Traverse (though tricky to grade).
Nota Bene: The first edition of Charlie Barrett’s Tuolumne Meadows Bouldering (2014) seems to list the extension start as the start for the original V3. (“Stand start on the left side of the wall about 10 feet before the steep section.”) This is either a minor error or an inspired effort at sandbagging -- it would surely make this the hardest V3 in Yosemite! For me, the extended problem is roughly comparable in difficulty to the Sentinel Traverse (though tricky to grade).
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