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Routes in Jap Head

Authentic Life T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13
Bootle Call T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bootleful T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crimson Crescent T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kamikaze Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
MAJAKOL Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower of Babylon- regular route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower of Boodle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kole Decou, Manuel Rangel
Page Views: 772 total · 5/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Feb 6, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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6 Opinions

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Description

Starts as a tricky bolted face then thru roofs to overhung tight hands in an overhung dihedral. The rock is very clean and solid for most of the way, except the very end, go left to face for a ways then onto the limestone band.

Location

Make your way up the drainage just south of the tower to the west, wander to the southeast end of tower and find the first 6 bolts below a striking dihedral 50' above. First clip is easy and serves as the anchor as well.

Protection

6 bolts, nuts, double purple to yellow camalots, #4 camalot.

Photos

Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
This climb is sustained, tricky, and well protected on nice rock. I used 3 #1 Camalots. I'd bring a #3 also, it can be placed after the thin hands section. (And the #4 Manny suggested is an old size #4)

The Tower of Bootle makes a good little cragging area, with a nice 5.10 and 2 classic 5.11's on the south face, and an ok 5.10 on the north face. The 5.11's can be toproped after leading one of the 10's.

An extra word of cation since I'd hate to see someone rap or lower off the end of the rope:
A 60m rope will make it off Bootleful JUST barely. BE CAREFUL!!! We haven't tested this rap with a 60m rope since we used a 70. Anyone planning on going to the Tower of Bootle should consider bringing 2 60m ropes (or a 70) because they are required to rap the MAJAK Line. If you only bring 1 60, you can rap from the MAJAK Line anchors to the Bootleful anchors, or you can rap the north face to get down with 1 rope.

  • See Topo in Jap Head section.
Feb 6, 2007
Ryan Z
  5.10+
Ryan Z  
  5.10+
Route was extremely sandy when I climbed it. Not to mention I was breaking rock everywhere. Not sure where the 5.11+ or even 5.11 came from. Seemed like every other 10+ pitch in Sedona. Sep 6, 2014

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