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Routes in Jap Head

Authentic Life T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13
Bootle Call T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bootleful T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crimson Crescent T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kamikaze Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
MAJAKOL Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower of Babylon- regular route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower of Boodle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: T. Coats, P. Davidson, D. Dawson
Page Views: 548 total · 4/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Jan 23, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Wide fingers to small roof in dihedral p1; wandering face on slab (no real pro) to chimney.

Location

NE corner of Japhead, wander up from east side to base of route in notch.

Protection

Fingers to #4 camalot or big bro for exit chimney. Slung huge loose block for anchor on p1, not much pro on p2 for a spicy runout lead that I thought I wouldn't be able to back off once committed. Wander to top and walk SE to anchors on Crimson Crescent, rap double ropes.

Photos

markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
1st pitch is a quality one, it really would be worthy of a rap anchor so you didn't have to do the sketchy second pitch. Jan 28, 2007
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
location should read NE corner!
There is now a 2 bolt anchor atop the first pitch, awesome pitch worth coming back to, if not for the summit. Nov 18, 2009
Ryan Z  
What is the difficulty of P2 slab? Feb 17, 2014
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.10d
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.10d
The slab wasn't difficult, maybe 5.7 or 5.8 occasionally with no pro and a big fall. Feb 20, 2014
Ryan Z  
thanks, I will have to get on this thing. Apr 7, 2014
Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
Pitch one is great, 3 stars at least. Pitch 2 is not great, 1 star at most. I give it 2 stars overall. Nov 16, 2016
Keith Noback  
 
First pitch is nice. Tricky at the bottom. Gear is there, but small and sometimes in suspect rock.
Slider nuts to a single # 3 Camalot (not necessary).
Bolts at top of first pitch. 70m just makes the ground with single rope rap.
Did not do P2. Looks a little sketchy. May 29, 2018

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