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Authentic Life [Suggest Change]
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C1 PG13
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Jap Head
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Authentic Life T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13 |
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Bootle Call T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bootleful T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crimson Crescent T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Kamikaze Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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MAJAKOL Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tower of Babylon- regular route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tower of Boodle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Geikenjoyner, Scott Duemler |
| Page Views: | 956 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | markguycan on Nov 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23
Details
As many of you know Coconino and Kaibab National Forests have implemented Stage II Fire Restrictions. To see what this means check this link
fs.usda.gov/detail/coconino…
Starting May 23, large portions of the Coconino and Kaibab Forests will be closed to entry. Yes, this means that many of our local crags will be shut down until August unless rescinded earlier due to monsoon rains. This first closure affects The Pit, The Peaks Crag, Hobo Jungle, West Elden, Solitude Canyon, and Kelly Canyon. All of Bill Williams Mt. is closed. All of the San Francisco Peaks is closed. All of Mt. Elden is closed. This is a normal response to an unusually dry winter and threatening fire season. LARGE fines of up to 5000$ are in place for people who do not respect the closure. Forest service personnel are driving the forest roads and flying the skies to track illegal activities. There is even a volunteer group, Woods Wathchers that reports suspicious activity.
In addition to these closures, much of the state trust lands in Northern Arizona are closed as well (Winslow Wall). Do your research before heading out, because as I said, there will be big fines.
Areas that are still open include Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon, The Overlook, The Waterfall, Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon, Jacks Canyon, Priest Draw, and Buffalo Park. But you had better double check!
fs.usda.gov/detail/coconino…
Starting May 23, large portions of the Coconino and Kaibab Forests will be closed to entry. Yes, this means that many of our local crags will be shut down until August unless rescinded earlier due to monsoon rains. This first closure affects The Pit, The Peaks Crag, Hobo Jungle, West Elden, Solitude Canyon, and Kelly Canyon. All of Bill Williams Mt. is closed. All of the San Francisco Peaks is closed. All of Mt. Elden is closed. This is a normal response to an unusually dry winter and threatening fire season. LARGE fines of up to 5000$ are in place for people who do not respect the closure. Forest service personnel are driving the forest roads and flying the skies to track illegal activities. There is even a volunteer group, Woods Wathchers that reports suspicious activity.
In addition to these closures, much of the state trust lands in Northern Arizona are closed as well (Winslow Wall). Do your research before heading out, because as I said, there will be big fines.
Areas that are still open include Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon, The Overlook, The Waterfall, Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon, Jacks Canyon, Priest Draw, and Buffalo Park. But you had better double check!
Description [Suggest Change]
P1: 5.10 TRAVERSE!!! about 100ft past gear placements and bolts to a nice ledge.
P2: 5.10+ CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing another bolt then up to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers(aid)and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)
P2: 5.10+ CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing another bolt then up to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers(aid)and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)
Location [Suggest Change]
start from the notch between J-head and the Tower of Babylon. Approach from Jordan Road TH about 10min then up climbers trail/wash and slick rock toward the saddle north of Tower of Babylon.
Protection [Suggest Change]
doubles from tiny to #3 camalot & 1 #3.5 useful.
small nuts very useful.
Descent: rap twice North side to Kamikazi Corner w/ 60M rope- anchors are bonified!
small nuts very useful.
Descent: rap twice North side to Kamikazi Corner w/ 60M rope- anchors are bonified!
flagstaff, AZ
Flagstaff, AZ
P3 was quite hard and the rock is very friable. I broke a few footholds off and there are 2 or 3 crucial patina faceholds that seemed quite solid but if they break this will become much harder. The placements for the crux are generally small, shallow, and flared. Small nuts, offset nuts, TCUS, C3s, and even offset cams could be useful. I was able to get the lower boulder problem after a few tries and it's probably 12b/c. There is a sidepull jug rest after the boulder problem but the pitch is definitely not over yet. I'd bring whatever small stuff you have and then singles of .5-1. A nut tool is also very helpful for scraping out the sand for gear placements.
The route is more North/Northeast facing than East facing. The upper part of P2 was a little damp and mossy when we did it. Feb 3, 2015
UT