Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Scott Duemler
Page Views: 1,360 total · 10/month
Shared By: markguycan on Nov 18, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

P1: 5.10 TRAVERSE!!! about 100ft past gear placements and bolts to a nice ledge.
P2: 5.10+ CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing another bolt then up to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers(aid)and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)

Location

start from the notch between Cíbola Mitten and Sweetheart Spire. Approach from Jordan Road TH about 10min then up climbers trail/wash and slick rock toward the saddle north of Sweetheart Spire.

Protection

doubles from tiny to #3 camalot & 1 #3.5 useful.
small nuts very useful.
Descent: rap twice North side to Kamikazi Corner w/ 60M rope- anchors are bonified!

Photos