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Routes in Jap Head

Authentic Life T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13
Bootle Call T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bootleful T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crimson Crescent T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kamikaze Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
MAJAKOL Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower of Babylon- regular route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower of Boodle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Scott Duemler
Page Views: 916 total, 9/month
Shared By: markguycan on Nov 18, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

P1: 5.10 TRAVERSE!!! about 100ft past gear placements and bolts to a nice ledge.
P2: 5.10+ CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing another bolt then up to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers(aid)and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)

Location

start from the notch between J-head and the Tower of Babylon. Approach from Jordan Road TH about 10min then up climbers trail/wash and slick rock toward the saddle north of Tower of Babylon.

Protection

doubles from tiny to #3 camalot & 1 #3.5 useful.
small nuts very useful.
Descent: rap twice North side to Kamikazi Corner w/ 60M rope- anchors are bonified!
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
So has this thing gone free yet? Feb 3, 2017
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
I found the P1 traverse to be quite fun yet engaging despite the 7 or so bolts; the only gear I placed was a small purple BD nut roughly in the middle of the pitch. Keep a tight belay at the middle because there is a ledge about 12 feet down you could potentially hit if you peel off in the wrong spot.

P3 was quite hard and the rock is very friable. I broke a few footholds off and there are 2 or 3 crucial patina faceholds that seemed quite solid but if they break this will become much harder. The placements for the crux are generally small, shallow, and flared. Small nuts, offset nuts, TCUS, C3s, and even offset cams could be useful. I was able to get the lower boulder problem after a few tries and it's probably 12b/c. There is a sidepull jug rest after the boulder problem but the pitch is definitely not over yet. I'd bring whatever small stuff you have and then singles of .5-1. A nut tool is also very helpful for scraping out the sand for gear placements.

The route is more North/Northeast facing than East facing. The upper part of P2 was a little damp and mossy when we did it. Feb 3, 2015
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
repeated this today with Mike Knarzer, we still can't get the top pitch clean, bad bolts were replaced and anchors improved. Dec 3, 2010