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Authentic Life
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C1 PG13
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Jap Head
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Authentic Life T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13 |
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Bootle Call T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bootleful T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crimson Crescent T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Kamikaze Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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MAJAKOL Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tower of Babylon- regular route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tower of Boodle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Geikenjoyner, Scott Duemler |
| Page Views: | 973 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | markguycan on Nov 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
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Description
P1: 5.10 TRAVERSE!!! about 100ft past gear placements and bolts to a nice ledge.
P2: 5.10+ CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing another bolt then up to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers(aid)and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)
P2: 5.10+ CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing another bolt then up to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers(aid)and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)
flagstaff, AZ
Flagstaff, AZ
P3 was quite hard and the rock is very friable. I broke a few footholds off and there are 2 or 3 crucial patina faceholds that seemed quite solid but if they break this will become much harder. The placements for the crux are generally small, shallow, and flared. Small nuts, offset nuts, TCUS, C3s, and even offset cams could be useful. I was able to get the lower boulder problem after a few tries and it's probably 12b/c. There is a sidepull jug rest after the boulder problem but the pitch is definitely not over yet. I'd bring whatever small stuff you have and then singles of .5-1. A nut tool is also very helpful for scraping out the sand for gear placements.
The route is more North/Northeast facing than East facing. The upper part of P2 was a little damp and mossy when we did it. Feb 3, 2015
UT