Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 4,057 total · 28/month
Shared By: duh on Feb 5, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Lean across from the boulder and pre clip the 1st draw. Start below, a hard boulder problem off the deck gets you started on this traversing route. Jugs, underclings, long reaches, side pulls, technical, tricky and pumpy. Unique route, local classic.

Location

This route is the farthest right route and has fixed chain draws.

Protection

10 fixed chain draws, fixed chain draw anchor.

Photos

James Weiss
Newport Beach, CA
 
James Weiss   Newport Beach, CA
 
If you can climb the grade, probably one of the more unique and fun routes at New Jack. Sep 30, 2014
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.12a
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.12a
I agree this is one of the better routes at New Jack, also probably my favorite 12a in the area. Good rock with a redpoint boulder problem near the end. May 11, 2015
Coon
 
Coon  
 
Awesome route with great moves. It's mostly short thin sections with nice jugs between them to fight off the pump.

I lost my mojo in line with the second to last bolt and landed 3 feet off the ground so beware of pulling out too much rope if youre insecure. May 25, 2015