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Routes in Fairway

Chaps My Hide S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Creepy Hollow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face To Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Freakshow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hole In One S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mojo Nation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My China Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nickel Slots S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Problematic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shall Remain Nameless S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sky's The Limit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Third Input S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Jack Marshall Dave Sprenger
Page Views: 1,901 total, 14/month
Shared By: duh on Feb 5, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start up the obvious shallow weakness, in the middle of the wall, past 3 bolts, then hand traverse to the left on a shelf and up and left thru huecos to the lip of the roof. Turn the lip on thin holds and face climb for another 50' to the chain anchors.

Protection

10 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c/d
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c/d
This route is amazingly fun and far superior IMO to the "classic" Fantasia of the same grade. Long, sustained, fun movement on excellent rock. Jan 29, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10+
Good climbing and some cool moves. Nice unit! Sep 24, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c/d
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c/d
After pulling the roof you can easily get confused on the correct path if you hadn't read the information that Jack put in this description. Our buddy Will led the route first and chose to use the exit to the right and shut anchors. I pulled the rope through and realized we should have finished up and left following the line of painted hangers (unlike the route to the right). Ah well, maybe next time.

Again with the fun climbing.

~Susan Sep 22, 2007