Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Jack Marshall Dave Sprenger
Page Views: 2,380 total · 16/month
Shared By: duh on Feb 5, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Start up the obvious shallow weakness, in the middle of the wall, past 3 bolts, then hand traverse to the left on a shelf and up and left thru huecos to the lip of the roof. Turn the lip on thin holds and face climb for another 50' to the chain anchors.


10 bolts, chain anchors.


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
After pulling the roof you can easily get confused on the correct path if you hadn't read the information that Jack put in this description. Our buddy Will led the route first and chose to use the exit to the right and shut anchors. I pulled the rope through and realized we should have finished up and left following the line of painted hangers (unlike the route to the right). Ah well, maybe next time.

Again with the fun climbing.

~Susan Sep 22, 2007
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Good climbing and some cool moves. Nice unit! Sep 24, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
This route is amazingly fun and far superior IMO to the "classic" Fantasia of the same grade. Long, sustained, fun movement on excellent rock. Jan 29, 2016