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Routes in Fairway

Chaps My Hide S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Creepy Hollow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face To Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Freakshow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hole In One S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mojo Nation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My China Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nickel Slots S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Problematic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shall Remain Nameless S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sky's The Limit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Third Input S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jack Marshall Sam Owings
Page Views: 776 total, 6/month
Shared By: duh on Feb 5, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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23 Opinions

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Description

Climb the face just left of Freakshow. Tricky layback crux at the 2nd bolt leads to 80' of easier fun climbing to the anchor.

Protection

10 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

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susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
My comments are even making me laugh. Okay, fast forward 7 years.... has me bumping this from a total sh*tbomb to a single star which is funny that's where it had started. The layback move and a few others are kinda interesting. Plus it gets a bonus for being long. Still not as good as others on the formation but maybe, worth warming up on. If you can call frozen hands warm. Jan 29, 2016
Clif Clap  
 
I thought this route was great fun. Interesting moves low with very cool lie back move on a sloping edge to a high left pocket where you can secure a good clipping position. The route changes character after the fourth bolt and follows positive holds to the anchors.

As for the damage of the rock, I can't attest to how it looked years ago but can only iterate that it's current condition feels perfectly climbable and enjoyable. May 24, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
In 2 years it seems that 400 pounds of rubble have come off this route. Key holds are now missing, mid section is complete shale and upper headwall plates look like they're going to sail down to your belayer like a frisbee.

What once was a multi-star 10a route now gets a bomb. Climb at your own risk.

~Susan Oct 11, 2009
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b
Interesting moves down low and then some nice pulls up to the top on the fake headwall. Sep 24, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Jack, it's 10 bolts to the chains.

This route provides an interesting and tricky two move wonder at the layback section. Coming up to it I tried it as a pinch first and realized quickly that wouldn't work. Upper headwall is fun climbing using lots of plates & edges. 4 bolts on lower section of route through bowl then 6 bolts to top.

~Susan Sep 23, 2007