Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 610 total · 4/month
Shared By: duh on Feb 1, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts down and left around the corner from Crossfire, on the south east face, off a terrace with a large rock to sit on and just right of Improbable. Head up 4 bolts and then left under a blocky roof then up past 5 more bolts. The chimney to the left is strictly off route. Clippig the 5th bolt and climbing past it, is the crux. Long draws on the 1st 3 bolts will help with rope drag.

Protection

9 bolts, chain anchor.

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Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11d
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11d
FYI- the chimney is actually to the left of the route. I agree that clipping the 5th bolt is indeed difficult/the crux. However, I did manage to take an intense 30 foot lead fall clipping the 7th bolt (was a GREAT soft catch) Haha... Should have analyzed the situation a bit better and moved my right hand to a better grip before trying to slap with my left. Panic is a bitch.

Very thought provoking route with excellent/technical movement. Feb 27, 2012