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Routes in Crossfire Crag

Bad Seed S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Change of Scene S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossfire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Kneebar Ranch S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Evil Offspring S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Improbable S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jug Haul S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Last Coyote, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Possibility, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Scene Is Not For Sale, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short and Sassy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Split The Scene S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 926 total, 7/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Jan 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Route starts on broken corner just up and left of the chimney. Start on slabby section and move upward following bolt line. 3rd and 4th bolts provide a bit steeper section with good clipping stances continue up to slightly bulging top out.

Location

Second route from left on southern side of crag and just left of chimney section. SCSG 3rd edition route 777

Protection

6 bolts to shut anchor
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b/c
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b/c
Well as far as the rating goes, as all other routes I'm sure it depends on the beta you use to climb the route. I'm by no means a seasoned .11 climber, but this definitely had some .11 moves on it for me. Maybe my beta just sucked, but I hung from every bolt on the upper section.... The move past the third bolt for me was a small left hand pinch hold and left foot press to the small edge under the 4th bolt - definitely felt .11 something any ways. I'm sure there is other beta which is better than what I did. I guess it really depends on the beta the first ascent person used. My two cents. Sep 26, 2011
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10d
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10d
Rating seemed a little out of whack, even when compared strictly to routes within NJC. Seemed more like .10d on the New Jack scale. As Russ said, you can finish it from the last bolt either left, right (rocking around the arete), or straight up. I went straight, which does have better positive finishing holds on cool quartz crytals above/behind the shuts. Jan 28, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10+
Good route. Start is low angle and chossy but improves just in time for the business section. Top out can be done left, right or center. I went right and almost pitched off the summit slopers. Seemed more positive out left. YMMV. Jan 28, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Guidebook indicates grade on this route as 5.11c *. For the record myself and two other partners feel this route is more like .10c** unless of course it was "Jacks Canyon, AZ" where the grade would be 11c******.

If you're in for an ego boost go lead this rascal before it gets downgraded for good.

Excellent route and worth doing again and again. Protects well and don't let the "grade" get to your head and all clips are from good stances.

~Susan Jan 28, 2007