Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 3,366 total · 23/month
Shared By: duh on Jan 3, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Double Kneebar Ranch starts to the left of Crossfire (5.12a). Steep, overhead slaps, underclings, kneebars, heelhooking. Local classic.


5 or 6 bolts to a chain anchor.


there is a huge undercling missing from this climb. anybody know anything about it? book says its a 12d. its definitely 12d or harder now. Feb 27, 2012
I'm pretty familiar with the route, done it dozens of times. Which undercling do you think broke? You can see them in the second pic on this page, red shirt. Id the hold.

jack Mar 2, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I first climbed this post-undercling breakage, so I've never known it any other way. Definitely harder than 12b, but 12d seems slightly high. I think it's solid at 12c. This is one of those climbs you kind of just have to say is "hardish" 12, without getting hung up on specific letter grades. I've only climbed NJC over a hand-full of visits, so I lack comparisons. I did climb You Don't Know Jack (5.12c) and I thought Double Kneebar Ranch was longer, a bit more powerful, and slightly harder—at least for me.

Even though the crux was turning the lip and going to the jug, the upper headwall stays engaging. You can definitely fall up there if your attention wanes.

Super, super fun crux. Jan 21, 2013
Seems like Andy has given a fair assessment of the grade. On the fa I rated it 12c/d. For what ever reason, when it came out in the guide book it was rated 12d. When Tom Linder did it, he thought it was soft at 12d, and he is right. But for my own reasons, when ever somebody starts spraying/ complaining about grades, I just think to myself FU and then sandbag the rating. I tried to change my 12b/c to a 12c but the site wouldn't let me make the change. Solid 12c seems to be a fair rating. You Don't Know Jack is easier and likely on the softer side of 12c. Feb 5, 2013
Mojave, CA
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
Regardless of the grade, I found this route to be excellent for the area. I think it's probably slightly easier than Lethal Weapon (or equal), and harder than Red Devil for sure. I would also say it's easier than Ride the Wild, which would put it at a solid 5.12c. Jan 11, 2015