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Routes in K Wall (aka M Face)

Bombay TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Needles TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outside Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pins T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power of Positive Thinking, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Tensile Strength TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thunderstorm TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,635 total · 33/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 16, 2007 with updates from Kyle Ribinsky
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

This is a fun climb and popular lead. There are a couple of options for the start: you can either climb the outside corner to a stance and then step right, or climb the blocky face to the right that is in direct line with the upper part of the climb. Continue climbing to the right of the arete to a small ledge just below the crux at about 3/4 of the way up. The crux is an awkward right leaning layback to a decent crack. Reach high and work your feet up the smooth surface. There are a couple of old pins on the route. Like most of the climbs here, Outside Corner felt stiff for the grade. Photo.

Location

This is located on the far left side of K Wall and climbs just to the right of the obvious arete.

Protection

If leading, bring a light rack with small to medium gear and a couple draws to clip the old pins. If TR'ing, anchor off bolts and the strange assortment of rebar and hooks at the top.

Photos

john cronin
  5.8
john cronin  
  5.8
Great route. See if you can find the piton on the way up. Got to within 5 feet of the top. 2 bolts at top make this super easy to set up TR. Make sure to tie in for safety. Was up on top at 6.30am. New paint and humidity made thinks slick. Jul 19, 2011
colin-72
  5.8+
colin-72  
  5.8+
Awesome trad lead! Feels about 5.8+ PG-13. Found one pin at the bottom of the route but no others. The crux has some nice exposure and good pro, just make sure not to cover up your hand holds in the crack. Small trad rack required; a couple draws and runners, regular set of nuts, cams small to medium, and a few good hexes couldn't hurt. Also, cordelette or sling for the two anchor bolts on top.... Enjoy the view of Beantown if you send it!
Nov 14, 2013
Nick Weinberg
Orford, NH
Nick Weinberg   Orford, NH
Fun lead...and definitely G rated - not PG-13.... Jan 17, 2017
Bryce Shumate
Boston, Massachusetts
Bryce Shumate   Boston, Massachusetts
Did this yesterday, there is a block in the beginning that is a little loose, just be careful. Super, super fun route! May 18, 2017
Brent D
 
Brent D  
 
There's a left sidepull on the arete right before the crux that is loose. Stable enough to pull on gently, but you can feel it moving. Feb 21, 2018
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
  5.8+
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
  5.8+
If you TR off the glue-ins at the top, I'd recommend placing some directionals - the swing can get pretty large. We used a draw in the pin near the bottom and two cams (0.75 and 2) in the crack near the top. Jun 16, 2018

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