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Routes in K Wall (aka M Face)

Bombay TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Needles TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outside Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pins T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power of Positive Thinking, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Tensile Strength TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thunderstorm TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5
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Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Paul Niland, c.1977
Page Views: 2,863 total · 22/month
Shared By: tscupp on Dec 31, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

This is a much better climb than it appears from the ground. Start up Pins (5.9) until you hit the left-angling seam. You can hand traverse here with a bad feet or climb Pins slightly higher and have the seam for feet. Mantle onto a good ledge and take a good rest before the crux. From here, follow a thin seam straight up using small edges, side pulls, and a few deceptive holds in the seam. I found the climbing to be quite sequency, technical and way harder than the surrounding climbs. I was surprised that I was still on the wall most of the time.

Eventually you can reach some bigger holds out right from the seam. Have a good rest then grab a hidden jug and fire through some small edges and a fun layback to the top.

On first effort, I felt this climb to be 11-, but it might just 10+ though Boston Rocks gives it grade of 10. Until you figure out the beta, it feels desperate. Lots of holds are hard to see or difficult to determine if they are any good until your hand is on them.

Definitely give it a try if you set up a rope for Pins or Outside Corner.

Location

This is on the face right of the obvious, sharp arete as you enter The Quarries. It shares a start with Pins.

Protection

Best to toprope with bolts at top for anchor.

Protection is good for the first third starting up Pins up through the diagonal traverse. Above here, the protection is poor taking maybe microstoppers in the seam and possibly small cams in the pods after the crux. Final third is better taking mostly small stuff here, but you may not even bother throwing any in as the holds improve.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
FA: Paul Niland around '77. Jan 31, 2010

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