Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Karin Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes
Page Views: 2,199 total · 15/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Jan 16, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Arete to blocky ledge to improbable face. The upper face looks like 5.12 slab from the ground!


At the right start for Rites of Spring (see Marty Lewis guide), climb the tiny crack corner to arete (just left of the leaning corner), join the blocky ledge of Rites of Spring for 20', then head left up the face.


6 bolts, tiny pro for start (#2 Lowe ball or black alien), 1" cam, 2-3" cam. 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.


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Bruce Willey
Bishop, CA
Bruce Willey   Bishop, CA
This two star rating is an understatement. Actually it's one of the finest routes of its grade in the canyon. Jul 25, 2007
Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
I think this is pretty challenging for 5.9 - has a couple of tasty mantles. May 23, 2011

nice little route, tastefully bolted, good climbing. definitely worth doing if you are in the area. Jul 11, 2011
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
Excellent movement on the upper face! Jul 23, 2011
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
Fun movements, great warm-up. Aug 19, 2013
Antonio Caligiuri
Bishop, CA
Antonio Caligiuri   Bishop, CA
I think this is the best warm up in the area if you aren't wanting to jump right on a 5.11, certainly a cut above Becky Route and the other 5.10s in the area (Sheila excluded, of course). That being said, you really only need one piece of gear on this route. You'll want a small cam for the section up to the first bolt. The shared section with the first pitch of Rites of Spring is very mellow (maybe 5.6?) and placing gear here would lead to some heinous rope drag as its 12-15' off the bolt line. Aug 2, 2015
This is as good route, but beware the start if you are not tall. My wife at 5'3" found it very difficult, and I've seen her flash 10c face. There are some key reaches that might be close to impossible to keep it 5.9. Expect a hard 5.10 move or more if you're not tall. The upper face is pretty classic and much easier than it looks.

BAd Aug 3, 2017
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great pitch. Starting thin crack is definitely harder than 5.9, even if tall. But it's great, well protected climbing regardless. Purple C3 fits perfectly - as does a green C3 higher. After the first bolt, there is a horizontal that takes a gray or purple camalot to help getting to the second bolt. Upper face is really fun, and not hard. Some handsize cams can protect the moves to the third bolt and didn't add any rope drag at all. Excellent pitch and worth doing. May 12, 2018