Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann
Page Views: 1,588 total · 11/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Jan 16, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Great long crack and face climb with a tenuous 5.11 crux that is so much more fun if you just yard on the 3rd bolt. With that single point of aid, the climb is a super fun, varied 5.9/10a. Note: the 2nd bolt is not really needed now, but on the ground-up FA, this bolt was placed from a sloper that turned out to be the top of a lodged block that we trundled, leaving a bomber jug and a far easier mantle. If you clip it, then once the 3rd is clipped, unclip the 2nd to reduce rope drag.


Around the arete left of the left start of Rites of Spring, climb a corner past a bush for 40' until you can make a fingertip traverse right (huge stem if you're tall) to a flake hand crack. Take this to a bolt, move right (hidden bolt), mantle to 3rd bolt. Yard on this to a huge edge, and take the ever-widening crack to the top.


Pro to 3.5", 3 bolts, double pro 1-3". Include thin cams. 2-bolt anchor with Mussy hooks, rap twice with single 60m rope (to the anchor of Friendly Faces Everywhere). An optional 4.5" piece can be used near the top.


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C Miller   CA  
If this route goes all free shouldn't the rating reflect that with a note you can "yard on the 3rd bolt" to make it 5.9+ AO, especially since 5.11 isn't so difficult (relatively speaking)? Oct 5, 2007
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
This is a great route! Needs a little more traffic to clean up some exfoliation and veg, but definitely worthy. Aug 17, 2011
Bryan G
Bryan G   Yosemite
Is there a second pitch to this climb? I recall seeing some bolts up an arete to the left of the anchor. I think a couple of the bolts might have been missing hangers. Aug 28, 2011
Rick Ziegler
Rick Ziegler  
Good crack climbing with a tricky face crux. I'm suprised this doesn't get climbed more. Sep 27, 2011
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
I don't know why you'd wanna skip the crux move, I think that's the most exciting part of the route. Fun dyno in between good crack climbing. Aug 29, 2013
Vlad S
Vlad S  
Pretty awesome route with a fairly unique crux for the area. Beware, a 70 m rope won't get you all the way down to the base, although it's possible to rap and downclimb the last easy 15 feet. May 19, 2014
R.F. Battitude
R.F. Battitude   Bishop
there is a second pitch... the old rivet ladder leaving the anchor as now been equipped and freed and South Park is now P1 of the 3 pitch Astro-lamb link up. check out my post to Astro-Lamb for details...
-chris Jun 6, 2015