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Routes in Terrace Tower

Light in August T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Tower, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Freiburg, Kurt Blair, 1997 FFA Jay Knower, Yan Mongrain, August 2001
Page Views: 2,783 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jan 8, 2007
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Description

The aptly named White Tower climbs up the left side of the prominent white pillar on the east face of Terrace Tower. This route has become a popular (for the Cirque) day route as it is relatively uncommitting and holds great climbing on good rock. The first two pitches are throw-away, but the next four pitches up the steep wall more than make up for the bummer start.

Pitches 1 and 2: Follow a weakness up and left to the base of the white pillar. 5.6

Pitch 3: Climb a wonderful crack in a left facing corner formed by the left side of the white pillar. This pitch has no real crux but the endurance pump feels about 11a.

Pitch 4: Climb through a dark overhang. When we climbed this pitch, it was dry which allowed us to free it at about 11a. Because of the dark rock, its easy to imagine the pitch wet and therefore unfreable. If dry, grunt up the chimney using chicken wings. For pro, I remember less than optimal stoppers placed behind a wedged block.

Pitch 5: Climb steep cracks up the face. Belay on the left side of a huge ledge that is one pitch below the top of the wall. 5.10+

Pitch 6: Follow the same crack system up deteriorating rock to the top. 5.9

Descent: Rap the route using two ropes.

Protection

Standard rack. Maybe bring extra hand-sized pieces for pitch 4. Two ropes are necessary for rapping. Bring extra sling material to back up the rap stations.
BFK
San Francisco
  5.10d
BFK   San Francisco
  5.10d
Nice climb for a half day outing and you get to summit a cool tower. The approach pitches to the corner aren't really pitches (more like grassy scrambling). The Next two pitches are great, the last 2 pitches are pretty terrible (loose, super mossy and wandery).

It might be better to climb Brett Hammer (further right of The White Tower on the overhanging face of Terrace Tower) and then just do the corner pitch on The White Tower if you have time after rapping Brett Hammer. Aug 28, 2014