Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jay Knower, Yan Mongrain, August 2001
Page Views: 3,208 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: Braden Batsford

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Light in August climbs the right side of the prominent white pillar that makes up the east face of Terrace Tower. The White Tower climbs the left side of the same pillar. It seems a number of routes in the Cirque were named after magazines that were left for "male entertainment" in Fairy Meadows. Light in August was named after a book by William Faulkner.

Start as for the White Tower and climb two pitches of loose uninspiring rock to the base of the thin crack on the right side of the white pillar. 5.6

Pitch 3: Climb thin, highly technical cracks up a steep white wall to a fixed belay station. 5.12-

Pitch 4: Follow a widening crack into a strange, strenuous chimney that defies a free climbing rating (5.10+) and belay on a huge block.

At this point, it is possible to contine up the right side of the pillar up a grungy-looking right-facing dihedral. Light in August heads left up steep cracks in the center of the pillar.

Pitch 5: Climb a steep hand crack through a number of roofs until you can arrange a gear belay at a less than vertical stance. 5.11

Pitch 6: This is a short pitch and could be combined with the previous one. The hand crack becomes a thin flared, bottoming crack and splits a roof. Make cruxy moves over the roof and belay on a good ledge. 5.11+

Pitch 7: Follow the crack, which becomes easier as the rock becomes more featured, to the huge ledge 100 feet from the summit. 5.11-

Pitch 8: Move the belay to the right along the big ledge and climb the big left-facing corner, 5.8. A difficult mantle move guards the top. 5.10+

Descent: Rappel The White Tower, which tops out about 30 feet to the left of Light in August.


Standard rack. Two ropes for the rapping.