Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Jay Knower, Yan Mongrain, August 2001|
|Page Views:||2,502 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on Jan 8, 2007|
Start as for the White Tower and climb two pitches of loose uninspiring rock to the base of the thin crack on the right side of the white pillar. 5.6
Pitch 3: Climb thin, highly technical cracks up a steep white wall to a fixed belay station. 5.12-
Pitch 4: Follow a widening crack into a strange, strenuous chimney that defies a free climbing rating (5.10+) and belay on a huge block.
At this point, it is possible to contine up the right side of the pillar up a grungy-looking right-facing dihedral. Light in August heads left up steep cracks in the center of the pillar.
Pitch 5: Climb a steep hand crack through a number of roofs until you can arrange a gear belay at a less than vertical stance. 5.11
Pitch 6: This is a short pitch and could be combined with the previous one. The hand crack becomes a thin flared, bottoming crack and splits a roof. Make cruxy moves over the roof and belay on a good ledge. 5.11+
Pitch 7: Follow the crack, which becomes easier as the rock becomes more featured, to the huge ledge 100 feet from the summit. 5.11-
Pitch 8: Move the belay to the right along the big ledge and climb the big left-facing corner, 5.8. A difficult mantle move guards the top. 5.10+
Descent: Rappel The White Tower, which tops out about 30 feet to the left of Light in August.