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Routes in Tieranny Roofs

Action Indirect S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alf's traverse V5 6C
Bird, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Body Count direct S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Body count S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Canyon Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Captains of Industry S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dead Air S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dutch Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Final Frontier S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gauntlet, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Harder Than He Is S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holly Hobby S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Huecool Junior S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huecool Senior S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Juicy Wartburger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jungle Jane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lifestyles of the Ripped and Heinous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Longer Than She Is S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Robinson's Family S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
My Babe's Got Sloping Jugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Natural Born Drillers S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Nomad S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pick Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Plasma Alliance S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocketeer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Probe, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Purple People Eater S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rockefeller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ronnie Raygun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rover B. Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of the Sperm S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tieranny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trundlerama S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whatsherface S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wild and Scenic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Glenn Ritter
Page Views: 4,187 total · 29/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on Dec 29, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Whatsherface is a great route on a clean, slightly overhanging panel of golden sandstone. The first crux comes low with sequential, fingery climbing to a fun toss to a jug. Rest up on good feet and horizontal hand jams, then climb sustained rock to the upper, very low percentage, crux. Easier, but very pumpy climbing through the final roofs brings you to the Captain Hook-style cold shut anchors.

Location

Whatsherface is a bit right of the Tierrany Roof area proper. Start about 50 ft right of the end of the long, flat, sunbathing boulder at the base of the wall. The first hold is a horizontal jug/pinch. Above the second bolt is a long, right-slanting rail (with a conspicuous hueco just below it) leading to the third bolt.

Protection

10 bolts. The climbing to the first bolt is tricky, maybe use a long stick-clip. An extended draw is nice for the crux bolt as it is not the best of holds to clip from. Lower with a 60m rope from open cold shuts.

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Glenn Ritter
Sandy, UT
  5.13a
Glenn Ritter   Sandy, UT
  5.13a
I can't remember for certain, but I think this plumbline was the 2nd route bolted at the Obed. Tieranny was the first. It just doesn't get much better than Whatsherface. Classic moves on beautiful rock. Sep 20, 2011
DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
  5.13a
DB Cee   Chattanooga, TN
  5.13a
Best 13- at Tieranny. Unsure why is gets docked a star in the guide book...along with Canyon Man, which is the 2nd best route at Tieranny. Way better than the steeper thuggy routes that all get five stars. Feb 18, 2014
Charlie Cianciolo
Knoxville, TN
 
Charlie Cianciolo   Knoxville, TN
 
An incredible line! Two memorable cruxes separated by great climbing, and on some of the best stone you will ever touch. Oct 31, 2017
"O you would remember this one" a perfect sentence to sum up this route! This route has two amazing crux sequences that will have you crimping hard and standing up on a ripple in the rock! Some of the best rock at the obed, do yourself a favor and get on this if you climb the grade. Nov 5, 2017
Kyle Townsend 1
San Francisco, California
  5.13a
Kyle Townsend 1   San Francisco, California
  5.13a
I agree with Blake, Canyon Man and Whatsherface are probably my two favorite routes at Tierrany as well, and they both IMO would be worthy of 5 stars at any climbing area, even the New or the Red. Ronnie Raygun and The Probe are my favorites on the steeper left side. Whatsherface has a full recovery rest in between the two cruxes, so it's a good one for people like myself who are breaking into the grade. Definitely a must-do! Jan 21, 2018

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