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Routes in Tieranny Roofs

Action Indirect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Alf's traverse V5 6C
Bird, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Body Count direct S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Body count S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Canyon Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Captains of Industry S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dead Air S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dutch Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harder Than He Is S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huecool Junior S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huecool Senior S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Juicy Wartburger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jungle Jane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lifestyles of the Ripped and Heinous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Longer Than She Is S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Robinson's Family S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nomad S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pick Pocket S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Plasma Alliance S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocketeer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Probe, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Purple People Eater S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rockefeller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ronnie Raygun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rover B. Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of the Sperm S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tieranny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trundlerama S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whatsherface S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wild and Scenic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Glenn Ritter
Page Views: 168 total, 7/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jan 17, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

A quality route with a slopey start on perfect black rock, an easier middle that wanders over a juggy roof, and a crux jump that gains a challenging roof.

Reach high for some good holds over a chest-height roof. Move right to a large hueco, and go straight up on very slopey edges and shelves until you reach better holds.

Cut left on jugs until you can reach a rail below the roof at mid-height. Then move back right along the rail, pull the roof using jugs and heel hooks, and head up an arete to a no-hands rest below another roof.

An easy traverse to the right along a horizontal crack leads to a final shake below the redpoint crux. Set up on a sidepull, and jump to a good hold below the airy horizontal roof that caps the entire wall. Core-sapping moves on decent finger buckets lead out the roof to a clipping jug at the lip of the wall.

You could top out if you wanted!

Beware of the questionable flakes in the roof at the top.

Location

Left of Rockefeller.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor with carabiners. The last four bolts are fixed with old webbing draws that have sticky gates.

Photos

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