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Routes in Tieranny Roofs

Action Indirect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Alf's traverse V5 6C
Bird, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Body Count direct S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Body count S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Canyon Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Captains of Industry S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dead Air S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dutch Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harder Than He Is S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huecool Junior S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huecool Senior S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Juicy Wartburger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jungle Jane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lifestyles of the Ripped and Heinous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Longer Than She Is S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Robinson's Family S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nomad S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pick Pocket S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Plasma Alliance S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocketeer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Probe, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Purple People Eater S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rockefeller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ronnie Raygun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rover B. Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of the Sperm S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tieranny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trundlerama S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whatsherface S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wild and Scenic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: FA: Glenn Ritter, FA Direct: James Litz
Page Views: 328 total, 14/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Dec 20, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

A extremely steep route that climbs past four tiered roofs- each containing a tough boulder problem.

Scramble up a slightly chossy slab past two bolts(not fixed) to the base of the first roof. Reach over the roof to a decent crimp and deadpoint for a good slot. Take a quick shake, then reach over the second roof to a series of scalloped crimps(crux), fire for another slot and take a rest at some jugs in the third roof. When ready, use small edges and some fancy footwork to flow over the third roof.

At this point you can do two finishes. Either go straight up on small edges and dyno to a jug below the anchors(13b) or keep moving right to a good rail, then make a few more hard moves before moving back left to the anchors(13a).

Location

70 feet left of Tang.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. Most of the bolts are fixed with old-school webbing perma-draws, so inspect them before trusting your life to them.

Photos

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Climber does 13a finish.

vimeo.com/91744703 Dec 29, 2015