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Routes in Tieranny Roofs

Action Indirect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Alf's traverse V5 6C
Bird, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Body Count direct S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Body count S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Canyon Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Captains of Industry S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dead Air S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dutch Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harder Than He Is S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huecool Junior S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huecool Senior S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Juicy Wartburger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jungle Jane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lifestyles of the Ripped and Heinous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Longer Than She Is S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Robinson's Family S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nomad S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pick Pocket S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Plasma Alliance S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocketeer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Probe, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Purple People Eater S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rockefeller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ronnie Raygun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rover B. Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of the Sperm S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tieranny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trundlerama S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whatsherface S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wild and Scenic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Glenn Ritter
Page Views: 6,423 total · 47/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

The first route done on the wall and still a classic. Tieranny is heavily chalked and begins just left of center on the wall. It follows a line of fixed draws out the roof that is just left of a bolted seam (The Probe) that also extends out the roof. Ends at chains hanging down from a break below the lip.

Climb the difficult face up to a good stance at rings below the roof. This is a sandbag at 5.10 and a difficult warmup. Continue out the roof on the fixed draws to a definite crux involving a left foot heel hook and a couple hard pulls on smaller holds to yet another jug.

Protection

A dozen draws or so. Fixed draws under the roof. PG13 rated without a stick clip.

Photos

The gate on the third permadraw has lost it "spring-loadedness". Be careful. 7/30/13. Jul 30, 2013
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
Amazing route. Every move on this thing is classic. Mar 13, 2012
Glenn Ritter
Sandy, UT
  5.12a
Glenn Ritter   Sandy, UT
  5.12a
When I die you can cremate me, stick me in my old REI chalkbag, and dust me onto those glorious roof holds of Tieranny. I'll never be so lucky again as to get the FA on such an amazing piece of rock.

P.S. -
If there is any left over dust the rest of me on Whatsherface! Sep 20, 2011
chummer  
Pascal and Kris Klein showed up and climbed it on natural gear. I think just to stick it to Glenn and the crew. The pro would clearly be solid. I don't remember the year. Chris Chestnut considered soloing it at one time many years ago as did KB. I didn't ever hear of them pulling it off though.

I climbed the route about 100 times and considered trying to solo it, got a wild hair one day and climbed up to the roofs, chickened out and climbed down. Thank god I did. I think I would have just freaked out at the crux. Oh how I miss Obed. Great memories there.

Matt Nasty and crew used take like 60 footers off the chains. They'd climbed over the lip pull up a bunch of slack and whip to about 30 feet off the ground. The good ol' days. Jan 13, 2008
426
 
426  
 
Could well be, RD. Seems like most of Obed could be tradded for the motivated.


As of last fall the mank was replaced and this was sporting some red runners and newer biners.

Good description, the "10" slab is very technical...


Ultra....classic... Feb 28, 2007
Rumor has it that this has been climbed on gear, by Pascal Robert about 10 years ago? Dec 31, 2006