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Routes in 1-2-3 Wall

Be Careful S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Beginer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cash Flow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbing School S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dr. Jekull & Mrs. Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying to the stars S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Giggering for Climbing S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
King Cobra S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights in White Satin S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kratoy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ling Noi S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Long Live the Herm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make a way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Massage Secrets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ramazon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Samiboy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Selee S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short And Savage S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
We Sad S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: B. Chamber, L. Reeves, V Rachsang
Page Views: 1,019 total, 8/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Dec 9, 2006
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Jump start! The route starts on a low-hanging tufa and the crux is getting started. Jump up to the starting jug (or reach up if you're 6ft or taller), find another jug, somehow get a foot on the tufa, and continue.

One can start the route on the wall and traverse over to the tufa at about the same difficulty. The route is easier from there to the top.

Location

This is in the middle of 1-2-3 Wall. Stroll to the left past the hordes of climbers out with the guides, and you'll come to a low-hanging tufa. The route starts there.

Protection

Bolts and slings. About ten clips. Rappel anchor at the top.
When I did this route with a mate in the early 90s, he jumped up (short little runt, he needed help to get to the hold...) and then did a one-arm chin to casually reach through for the next hold. I nearly gave up climbing on the spot! May 21, 2007
The start is like a v2 boulder problem, then the route is very easy after that. I saw a guy get on this by putting a big cheater rock under it, then he bouldered up, fell off, and knocked himself silly on his rock. Best plan is to remove any cheater rocks before starting! Apr 12, 2007
Art Morimitsu
Huntington Beach, Ca
  5.10a
Art Morimitsu   Huntington Beach, Ca
  5.10a
Makes a fun boulder problem too by just doing the bottom section. I did the boulder start jumped off and then let my partner lead it....in the rain. Mar 12, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Just a move or two. Easy if you are strong and tall, hard if you are not. Mar 9, 2007
As each person in our group climbed this route, we noticed the edge of the water getting closer, so we kept moving the rope bag up the beach. At high tide, the belayer would be knee deep. Mar 9, 2007