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Routes in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Fun Police S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grizzly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Light The Fuse S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nitroglycerine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Keg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Fuse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smackdown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiptail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris Miller, Nathan Mitts & Pete Paredes, July 2001
Page Views: 2,657 total, 20/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 8, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The right side of Motherlode Rock's north face is home to this fine route up the striking northwest arete, which from the west looks like the head of a giant lizard.

Start in a shallow right-facing corner around and right from Smackdown and climb up and slightly left to a stance atop a pillar. Above the pillar the climb goes slightly right to gain the arete proper which goes slabby after a few moves and leads to the base of a short headwall. The next moves are the crux and involve moving off a good left hand in a shallow corner as your right hand pinches the arete to gain a horizontal (the Lizard's mouth) and then the anchors (these last moves are somewhat reachy).

Good exposure, enjoyable movement and quality rock make this a route to seek out on this portion of Motherlode Rock.

Location

Right side of the north face on the obvious sharp arete.

Protection

4 bolts, sport anchors
Sean Haynes  
 
We really need to stop top roping through those anchors. They are worn out and will need replacing soon with how popular this area is. May 22, 2017
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.9
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.9
Awesome climb! My favorite one in this area. The green lichen-covered face to on the right-side is very cool to climb past. Staying on the arete brings a great sense of exposure. Hand jam the top horizontal crack for an easy finish. Mar 6, 2016
Bailey Miller
  5.9+
Bailey Miller  
  5.9+
I guess I am not the only one that ended up on the right side of the arete. That felt like the natural progression of the line, but makes the finish a lot more... interesting when you have to traverse back around to the anchors. Aug 31, 2015
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
  5.9
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
  5.9
Anchor has two sport clippers, so you can just clip and lower. Aug 6, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
For setting up a TR it would have been nice if this climb had its own set of anchors (the Lizard could use a nose ring ;-) But there's something fun about letting the Lizard swallow your right arm while you fuss with the anchor. Great climb! Jun 16, 2007
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9+
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.9+
Confusing finish ???? Seems like it should take the extreme right side and finish up past the Lizard's right side of its mouth. Better moves although a bit dirty. Apr 18, 2007