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Whiptail
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 149
votes
Routes in Motherlode Rock - North Face
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Baku S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blast Hole, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Boom Sauce S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finger Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fun Police S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grizzly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Helmet Jammer T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Here Comes the Boom S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nitroglycerin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Powder Keg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Power Keg S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Short Fuse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smackdown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whiptail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.30895, -116.87802 |
| FA: | Chris Miller, Nathan Mitts & Pete Paredes, July 2001 |
| Page Views: | 4,675 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 8, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Road Closure in Effect
Details
[IN THE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA AREA]
Is closed from 0.2 mi east of Angelus Oaks /at Mill Creek Rd/ to 4.6 mi east of Angelus Oaks /at Hill Ranch Rd/ (San Bernardino Co) - Due to mudslide - Motorists are advised to use an alternate route
Description
The right side of Motherlode Rock's north face is home to this fine route up the striking northwest arete, which from the west looks like the head of a giant lizard.
Start in a shallow right-facing corner around and right from Smackdown and climb up and slightly left to a stance atop a pillar. Above the pillar the climb goes slightly right to gain the arete proper which goes slabby after a few moves and leads to the base of a short headwall. The next moves are the crux and involve moving off a good left hand in a shallow corner as your right hand pinches the arete to gain a horizontal (the Lizard's mouth) and then the anchors (these last moves are somewhat reachy).
Good exposure, enjoyable movement and quality rock make this a route to seek out on this portion of Motherlode Rock.
Photos
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