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Routes in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Fun Police S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grizzly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nitroglycerine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Keg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Keg S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short Fuse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smackdown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiptail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ricky Steele
Page Views: 220 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ricky Steele on Aug 27, 2017
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Start on Powder Keg, work your way up through the first 2 bolts, match the jug and traverse right over the outcropping and pull the Crux on Nitro G.

Heel hook and compression your way across the lip.

Location [Suggest Change]

Route starts on Powder keg

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

C Miller
CA
5.11a/b
C Miller   CA  
5.11a/b
Not a good idea to call this a sport route just because it is all bolted.

Falling at the 3rd bolt (the 2nd bolt on Nitroglycerine) will result in a bad fall back into the corner and onto the slab below. Sure it can be led but it can also be soloed, which is probably safer than leading it the way it is unless you just top-rope it.

Probably not worth adding a bolt as the two routes are so close together but will check it out and see. Sep 14, 2017
Ricky Steele  
 
I'd like to rename this one Power Keg if possible. Apr 18, 2018
Cody Kaemmerlen
Encinitas, CA
  5.11a/b PG13
Cody Kaemmerlen   Encinitas, CA
  5.11a/b PG13
A must do HVP climb in the 11's! Nice to "warm up" by clipping the first two of Powder Keg then a heart pounding journey to the third, which you're all to aware is the second of Nitroglycerine. Clear some head-space and dial in your breathing, this one's a wild ride!

Love the suggestion from Ricky Steele to rename "Power Keg", really drives home what this thing takes to put down and pays homage to the start.

Also, I think adding a PG13 protection rating is worth considering, especially with the insurgence of transitioning gym climbers. Apr 30, 2018
Ricky Steele  
 
I think one bolt in the middle of the lip right in-between the troth, or underneath in the roof. would make this A safer climb May 4, 2018
Cody Kaemmerlen
Encinitas, CA
  5.11a/b PG13
Cody Kaemmerlen   Encinitas, CA
  5.11a/b PG13
I have to agree with Ricky Steele's comment below re: a new bolt. Much safer and would allow folks who are just entering the grade to add this to their list.

I'll gladly haul the gear up if someone wants to bolt and also wouldn't mind showing me how it's done as this is something I have a strong desire to learn. PM if you want to discuss. May 14, 2018

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