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Routes in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Fun Police S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grizzly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Light The Fuse S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nitroglycerine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Keg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Fuse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smackdown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiptail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

The narrow and shady north face, known also as The Lizard Head for it's resemblence to one from the west, is home to a small collection of sport routes that range from 5.8-5.10.

The exposed arete of Whiptail (5.9) is the best route here but Powder Keg (5.10a) and Short Fuse (5.10b) are also enjoyable as worthy of attention.

Routes listed from left to right:

Powder Keg (5.10a)
Nitroglycerine (5.10b)
Short Fuse (5.10b)
Fun Police (5.6)
Smackdown (5.8)
Whiptail (5.9)

Getting There

Take the trail from the northern parking area, which passes beneath the Incinerator Wall and leads directly to the wall.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Motherlode Rock - North Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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