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Routes in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Fun Police S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grizzly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nitroglycerine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Keg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Keg S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short Fuse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smackdown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiptail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Description [Suggest Change]

The narrow and shady north face, known also as The Lizard Head for it's resemblence to one from the west, is home to a small collection of sport routes that range from 5.8-5.10.

The exposed arete of Whiptail (5.9) is the best route here but Powder Keg (5.10a) and Short Fuse (5.10b) are also enjoyable as worthy of attention.

Routes listed from left to right:

Powder Keg (5.10a)
Nitroglycerine (5.10b)
Short Fuse (5.10b)
Fun Police (5.6)
Smackdown (5.8)
Whiptail (5.9)

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Take the trail from the northern parking area, which passes beneath the Incinerator Wall and leads directly to the wall.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Motherlode Rock - North Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Grizzly Wizard
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 82
Whiptail
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 172
Powder Keg
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 46
Nitroglycerine
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
Short Fuse
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Power Keg
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Grizzly Wizard
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Whiptail
 82
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Powder Keg
 172
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Nitroglycerine
 46
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Short Fuse
 38
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Power Keg
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Motherlode Rock - North Face »

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