Description

The narrow and shady north face, known also as The Lizard Head for it's resemblence to one from the west, is home to a small collection of sport routes that range from 5.8-5.10.

The exposed arete of Whiptail (5.9) is the best route here but Powder Keg (5.10a) and Short Fuse (5.10b) are also enjoyable as worthy of attention.

Routes listed from left to right:

Powder Keg (5.10a)
Nitroglycerine (5.10b)
Short Fuse (5.10b)
Fun Police (5.6)
Smackdown (5.8)
Whiptail (5.9)

Getting There

Take the trail from the northern parking area, which passes beneath the Incinerator Wall and leads directly to the wall.

9 Total Climbs

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Location: Motherlode Rock - North Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Motherlode Rock - North Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Boom Sauce
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Grizzly Wizard
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 90
Whiptail
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 184
Powder Keg
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 47
Nitroglycerine
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
Short Fuse
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Power Keg
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Boom Sauce
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Grizzly Wizard
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Whiptail
 90
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Powder Keg
 184
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Nitroglycerine
 47
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Short Fuse
 39
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Power Keg
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Motherlode Rock - North Face »

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