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Routes in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Fun Police S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grizzly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Light The Fuse S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nitroglycerine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Keg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Fuse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smackdown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiptail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Pete Paredes, Nathan Mitts, Ted Peace, Diane Peace & Chris Miller, July 2001
Page Views: 1,549 total, 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 8, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb a short vertical face (crux) which quickly slabs out at the second bolt. From here the climb wanders up the slab to a steep finish, which involves handrailing out right along a horizontal crack to a shared anchor with Whiptail.

The name comes from a slab-smacking fall, which earned a fractured ankle, by one of the members of the FA party (not me).

Location

Locate this route on the right side of the north face - just left of Whiptail on a slabby section of rock.

Protection

6 bolts, sport anchor
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.8+
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.8+
This is a great route to set up a top rope on if that's what you're into. Both this and the route on the arete can be climbed from the same anchor. Personally I find whiptail, the other route, easier (read more fun and straightforward), but that may be because I'm not a huge fan of slab. Jul 5, 2016
I was smacked down trying to clip the anchors today. Took a nice 'Weekend Whipper' too. Nothing bruised except maybe my pride a little.

I was trying to traverse the little ledge at the top from the left side. It didn't work. After bailing, I watched another (much taller than me) climber slab his way up directly under the anchors, then reach up and quickly make the clip.

Much better way to go than what I tried to do. Oct 4, 2014
Sean Roozen
Port Hueneme, California
  5.9
Sean Roozen   Port Hueneme, California
  5.9
Loved the climb, I thought it was much more difficult than a 5.8, the last move felt more in the range of a 5.10. Setting the anchor was by far the most difficult, I had to bail out, couldn't quite get it. I tried to set it from both the Smackdown side and from Whiptail. Sep 8, 2014
Coon  
Wish I woulda climbed this with some beta. Took two crappy falls trying to top out on the little roof where the anchors are set, expecting there to be holds above the anchor thinking clipping from bellow seemed too hard for 5.8. Had a couple peeks over the top and saw that it was a bunch of loose sediment. So clip from the horizontal crack bellow the anchors. Otherwise it's a walk up. May 26, 2013