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Routes in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Boom Sauce S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun Police S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grizzly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nitroglycerine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Keg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Keg S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short Fuse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smackdown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiptail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Aaron Lawrence and Brent Webster, 2012
Page Views: 1,628 total · 22/month
Shared By: Aaron Lawrence on Sep 23, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Bolted route left of Short Fuse, slab climbing with a smear crux near the top around the 8th bolt. A great warm-up or first lead.

Location

In between "Short Fuse" and "Smackdown"..rap or lower.

Protection

10 bolts, sport anchors

Photos

Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
 
This will be a lot more fun if it sees some traffic and cleans up. As it stands, it felt like a lichen-covered gardening project. Interesting rock up near the top. Apr 28, 2013
Aaron Lawrence
Redlands
  5.6
Aaron Lawrence   Redlands
  5.6
if you stay on the slab, and out of the cracks (in other words:stay on route) its very clean Jul 1, 2013
Matan
 
Matan  
 
Did this route today (on sight) and I feel that this is no where near Holcomb quality. It's a grainy mossy mess right now, way awkward, and felt much harder (yet less fun) than the 5.8 to its right. The rap anchor is very sloppy: two throw away biners clipped into the bolts with a funky chain/rap setup, the chain is also much thinner than any of the other Holcomb anchors. When pulling the rope, it easily gets stuck in the right crack around the loose microwave-sized chock stone. Aug 5, 2013
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.6
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.6
Clean route with no needed gear if you stay on route. It's supposed to be a slabby climb and it's great well protected practice. I skipped a bolt near the top but it gets much easier after the halfway point. Be careful pulling the rope as I could see it potentially getting stuck

I do agree that the anchors are too thin. Not an inspiring rap off! Aug 3, 2015
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.6
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.6
Did this a couple days ago. No gear needed at all. Stay in the middle and out of the cracks to get the grade. I missed the first bolt until I saw it after coming back to the ground. It's definitely not needed; though, I am a taller climber at 6'2". The second bolt is well camouflaged from the ground but easily seen once you're on the rock. Area is shaded by the face throughout the morning and further shaded by trees after noon. Jul 5, 2016
Cody Kaemmerlen
Encinitas, CA
 
Cody Kaemmerlen   Encinitas, CA
 
Great route to get a prepared climber up on their first lead. While few seem to stay on route; most trending right low, getting onto the face at the center and then trending left high, it still seems quality. I've climbed direct (the actual route) and the variation I mention and they seem fine to call both 5.6. Wanted to suss it all out to ensure it's well protected for beginners and either way seems solid. Apr 30, 2018

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