Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Brian Sarni
Page Views: 3,002 total · 20/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Dec 3, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

If you are looking for harder trad lines in the Prescott area you have plenty of options, but don't miss out on this Joshua Tree like finger system. With sweet positioning, good gear, and quality movement, this easily accessed line is a true Prescott classic. Makes for an easy project for aspiring tradsters.

Start out on good holds/jams and climb up to a small left facing dihedral. Move up over a small bulge and you are staring down the crux. There are a handful of different ways to do this section, though it doesn't seem all that much harder than anything else on the route. After the crux, Fred keeps his eye on you and delivers more physical climbing with narry a rest to the top.

Location

North side of main wall.

Protection

Wires (small to large), TCUs (single set, double up on yellow and oranges). The anchors at the top got pulled a long time ago, though behind the tower is a new set of hardware store variety glue ins. Though they are new, they are by far not the best.

Photos

Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
  5.11+
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
  5.11+
Super good finger crack, even if its 100 feet from the car. Don't forget the jewelry. Nov 18, 2016
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.11+
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.11+
Someone (who knows what they're doing) should re-install the anchor bolts. Unless there's a good reason they were ripped out and never replaced? Feb 18, 2017
I-Habib
Prescott, AZ
 
I-Habib   Prescott, AZ
 
what gabe said Feb 18, 2017
justino  
They were likely chopped b/c traditionaly you built an anchor with cams. Prescott has staunch trad ethics. Learn to love it. It’ll make you a better climber. Jan 5, 2018
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.11+
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.11+
thanks for the advice, justino Feb 20, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Gabe, I can’t believe you got this far in your climbing career without learning how to build a trad anchor;) The route deserves a proper lowering anchor. It’s a four star Prescott classic. Almost seems disrespectful. Sep 3, 2018