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Routes in Gotham City

Bat Angel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Boy Wonder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Flipper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Evil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flex Your Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grindrite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In the Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Joker's Acid Bath S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kingsnake S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Machine Gun Jumblies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
More Than Just Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Freeze T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Penguin, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Riddler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
She's A Man, Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stronger Than Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superfly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tall Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Transflexual S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
WollY bugger S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marty Lewis, Kevin Calder, 5/97
Page Views: 6,152 total, 46/month
Shared By: Jonathan Howland on Nov 23, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


79 Opinions

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Description

Two v. fine pitches -- the first up to an exciting roof (which is more traversed than surmounted: right off a big horn, then back left on big holds), the second with a steep flake/corner of liebacking and jamming.
Comfortable ledge between pitches.
One seasoned Gorger I know calls this the best 5.10 in the ORG.

Protection

9 bolts on each pitch. Two single rope (60 m.) rappels to descend.
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
The horn on the first pitch flexed noticeably this last weekend which I don't remember from several years back. Additionally I would say the rock on the 2nd pitch has some questionable looking blocks. I pulled on them with no incidence but just be aware.

Guide says you can link into one long pitch which is true but with quite a bit of rope drag even with using long slings. I was barely able to lower back to first pitch anchor after linking with a 60m and so doubt you could toprope as one long pitch with 70m either. Best to climb as 2 separate pitches. As stated above the ledge is nice and can accomadate 3 people easily. Dec 2, 2013
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
This route can be done in one long enduro pitch if you have enough draws. Don't miss the cliffhanger maneuver on P1. Jan 18, 2013
Jackie Trejo  
 
There is bat shit EVERYWHERE on this climb... Rather nasty but still super rad climb! Oct 1, 2012
RossV
Lyon, FR
RossV   Lyon, FR
A must do if you're in the Gorge. Don't even think about only doing the 1st pitch, the 2nd is also great! Feb 6, 2012
If you know how to bandaloop, you can swing over to a bolt on Wooly Bogger, climb up a bit and set up a toprope on it. Superfly is Sooper rad. Feb 2, 2012
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.10c
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.10c
Loses a point for bat shit?! Hmmm... that's very rugged of you. May 19, 2009
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
9/10 climb - loses a point only b/c there's still a bit of bat shit to be negotiated on p2. But that won't kill ya. Mar 17, 2008
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
Actually if you reach up from the ginormous hold under the roof you can reach a HUGE super bomber pocket and kick your feet out. This bi-passes the traverse. A very fun move! Nov 21, 2007
Really really fun! The first pitch was surprisingly easy. The second was surprisingly hard and sustained. I remember thinking that I would certainly grease off at any moment, but somehow kept moving upwards anyway. Jul 4, 2007
I might call it the best 5.10 sport climb in the country. Nov 28, 2006