Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marty Lewis, Kevin Calder, 5/97
Page Views: 7,515 total · 50/month
Shared By: jonathan howland on Nov 23, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


106 Opinions

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Two v. fine pitches -- the first up to an exciting roof (which is more traversed than surmounted: right off a big horn, then back left on big holds), the second with a steep flake/corner of liebacking and jamming.
Comfortable ledge between pitches.
One seasoned Gorger I know calls this the best 5.10 in the ORG.

Protection

9 bolts on each pitch. Two single rope (60 m.) rappels to descend.

Photos

I might call it the best 5.10 sport climb in the country. Nov 28, 2006
Really really fun! The first pitch was surprisingly easy. The second was surprisingly hard and sustained. I remember thinking that I would certainly grease off at any moment, but somehow kept moving upwards anyway. Jul 4, 2007
Isaac T.
Oceanside, CA
Isaac T.   Oceanside, CA
Actually if you reach up from the ginormous hold under the roof you can reach a HUGE super bomber pocket and kick your feet out. This bi-passes the traverse. A very fun move! Nov 21, 2007
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
9/10 climb - loses a point only b/c there's still a bit of bat shit to be negotiated on p2. But that won't kill ya. Mar 17, 2008
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.10c
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.10c
Loses a point for bat shit?! Hmmm... that's very rugged of you. May 19, 2009
JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
If you know how to bandaloop, you can swing over to a bolt on Wooly Bogger, climb up a bit and set up a toprope on it. Superfly is Sooper rad. Feb 2, 2012
RossV
Berkeley, CA
RossV   Berkeley, CA
A must do if you're in the Gorge. Don't even think about only doing the 1st pitch, the 2nd is also great! Feb 6, 2012
J T
 
J T  
 
There is bat shit EVERYWHERE on this climb... Rather nasty but still super rad climb! Oct 1, 2012
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
This route can be done in one long enduro pitch if you have enough draws. Don't miss the cliffhanger maneuver on P1. Jan 18, 2013
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
The horn on the first pitch flexed noticeably this last weekend which I don't remember from several years back. Additionally I would say the rock on the 2nd pitch has some questionable looking blocks. I pulled on them with no incidence but just be aware.

Guide says you can link into one long pitch which is true but with quite a bit of rope drag even with using long slings. I was barely able to lower back to first pitch anchor after linking with a 60m and so doubt you could toprope as one long pitch with 70m either. Best to climb as 2 separate pitches. As stated above the ledge is nice and can accomadate 3 people easily. Dec 2, 2013
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.10c
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.10c
First pitch is amazing! Navigating the roof is super fun. I was thankful I didn't take the second pitch, which is much more difficult and sustained. Jan 17, 2018