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Routes in Smears for Fears Area

Lebanese JoJo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lebanese NoNo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rojo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smears for Fears T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia
Page Views: 892 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jonathan Groppenbacher on Nov 22, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


20 ft to the right of Smears For Fears start in some featured rock below a shallow right facing dihedral. Gain the bolted face above that.


WC Zeros - 1.75 and a handful of extendable draws


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This route has had bolts added subsequent to the first ascent. Rojo was established ground up with a hand drill from stances. Trad ethics RIP. May 8, 2009
All three pro bolts on this one looked original to me. Whatever extra bolts may have been added at some point are long gone now. Impressive route, wish there were more like this one in the canyons. Jun 11, 2011
Josh Janes    
3 bolts total and as Handren puts it in his guide, still "hair raising". Clearly bolted on lead - I don't think this has been retro'd, but Paul, you would know. Oct 22, 2013
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
unfortunately there's a bolt in the dihedral. bomber gear below and above it. The last 2 bolts are pretty necessary. Better than Smears, IMO. Apr 1, 2015

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