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Routes in Smears for Fears Area

Lebanese JoJo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lebanese NoNo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rojo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smears for Fears T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sal Mamusia, Bob Conz, "Frodo" Lybarger, Mike Ward, Paul Van Betten 1990
Page Views: 1,332 total, 9/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on May 9, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details


This is a strange route featuring a fun, airy traverse with excellent rock.

Pitch 1: Rope up and climb the obvious weakness on the left side of the roof - a overhanging, juggy right-facing corner. There are two bolts here. Belay at the large pine tree.

Pitch 2: Traverse directly right, using a horizontal crack for your feet and disappear from the sight of your belayer. Continue traversing past a bolt to a small belay station (1 bolt, one fixed nut). Head up the seam here and follow it through a roof and past a fist crack to the anchor (fixed nuts, slings) at the top of the climb. Rappel once from here with two ropes.

Variation: From the small belay station (1 bolt, one nut) you can continue traversing and head up from another point of your choosing. There are at least three vertical cracks you can take to the top, each of similar difficulty.


The base of the climb is about 75 feet left of Smears for Fears. The prominent feature is the large black varnished face on the upper portion of the climb and the roof below it that towers over a pink rotten section. It is located just around the right side of Frigid Air Buttress.


Standard rack through #2 Camalot, emphasis on small gear.


Climbed this route in February 17', great 2 pitch outting. Doesn't seem as though any webbing has been replaced at the top of the 2nd pitch anchor. It was a busted ass rats nest of tat. My partner left his cordelette for back up. Thing could use a 2 bolt anchor. Worthy climb. Apr 13, 2017
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Confusing route - wish we would have had this beta! With only the Handren guide to go by we ended up doing the corner further left as the first pitch which was ok and 5.7ish. I wandered all around looking for where to traverse (seemed like 3 or 4 possibilities) but nothing looked that great and I saw no bolts and wasn't sure about the pro so we bailed. Handren says traverse right above the lip but based on the photos here, sounds like a higher traverse at tree level is the way? There was zero chalk so this must not get done to often. Good to know there is pro because that first vertical crack you see does not look like it takes much. Nov 12, 2014
The big tree above the steep crack on P1 has a pretty huge dead tree suspended in it. Knocking this off while anyone's below is a really bad idea. Heads up, the thing moves when the wind blows. Jan 16, 2012
The retrobolts are long gone-can't imagine why someone would bother to bolt up a route like this. Very weird. Protected well and rock is good. I replaced the top webbing (probably original) with new stuff the ASCA sent me. This climb is worth doing-thin and interesting. Wendell told me that there are two different traverses that put you at the fixed anchor atop P1-the lower is the original, the one we did protected well with wires and C3s and had a patched bolt hole on the way across. If doing the lower traverse, you'll climb up to the hanging belay-if the higher, straight across to it. Jun 11, 2011
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
This route has been retro-bolted. Sometime between last August and this month, two bolts were added to the first pitch, below the roof that is below the large pine tree, and one bolt was added about 30 feet into the traverse to the right.

I don't feel that the addition of these bolts was justified, as there is adequate protection in the vicinity of these bolts. The initial roof used to be exciting as you pulled the jugs through the improbable overhang, but this experience has been severely diminished.

Who added these bolts and why did they feel like they could forever change this route? Maybe they should have just stayed over in the Calico Hills where they can grid-bolt to their heart's content. In the future, the driller would do us adventure/trad climbers a service by leaving the bolts at home. May 10, 2006