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Routes in Smears for Fears Area

Lebanese JoJo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lebanese NoNo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rojo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smears for Fears T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,638 total, 12/month
Shared By: Gary Savage on Feb 7, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

One of the sweetest slab routes in red Rocks. Even though this is bolted one should view it as a trad climb as the bolts are fairly far apart and were put in on lead at available stances. The first crux comes about 15 feet up. The next crux is clipping and climbing above the last bolt. Long fall potential here if you skitter off. Once you get your hands on the ledge a quick mantle will slow the heart rate back down and easy 5th class to the anchor.

Location

The obvious bolted slab 100' right of Lebanese Jojo.

Protection

Bolts and a couple of small pieces right off the ground.

Photos

Alex Shainman
  5.11d PG13
Alex Shainman  
  5.11d PG13
EXCELLENT pitch of techy steep slab! 11b/c is a sandbag...the Handren guide is more accurate at 11d. Also...you need more than just some small gear to supplement the bolts. It'll be obvious what you need before the 1st bolt. A 4 Camalot or 4 Friend size cam is very nice higher up. Just sayin'...maybe a draw with lockers for the last bolt too ;-) Best to do this one in cooler temps. Apr 27, 2017
After back-to-back efforts, the consensus in my group was that this was at least as difficult as Rojo. 11b/c may be lowballing it a bit. Jan 16, 2012