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Routes in c. Moe (closure) to Harvest Moon

Ambien Knights T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Animal Farm T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
As the Cliff Turns T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
BM T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beauty and the Skink T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Boston Tree Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bush League T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Lite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
By the Toe, direct start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Catnip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cherokee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Day Tripper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Quacks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easter Time Too T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elf Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giddah! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good Friday Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gouda Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunks Burghers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Halfbeak T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Honky Tonk Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Interiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left meets Right T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Moxie T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Old and Mossy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Way or Another T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Orc Stone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Raven and the Cat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Route Awakening T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Saving Face T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Saving Grace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scuttlebutt T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Serfs' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shtick It T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Slab Shtick TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spic and Span T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Summer Breeze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whet Stone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wolf and the Swine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Woolly Clam Taco T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wrong Place, Right Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
You're in the wrong place, my friend T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zachariah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Dick Williams, Tom Bridges - 1973
Page Views: 905 total, 7/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 18, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

The beta on this route is a little confusing; the Dick Williams guides variously list one or more pitches. If there is in fact a second pitch, it evidently never gets climbed, judging by the loose rock and lichen. That having been said, Scuttlebutt is definitely a worthwhile climb, especially when the more popular routes are occupied.

A challenging start goes up a face with sparse pro, trending left to a nose. Follow this nose and the face climbing above it to a spacious belay ledge with a pine tree.

Location

Scuttlebutt starts about 15' left of Day Tripper corner, and just right of the obvious nose. The popular landmark in this section is Easter Time Too.

Descent: Rap down from the pine tree.

Protection

Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Build a gear anchor at the top of the pitch. Rap rings are slung on a pine tree at the ledge.

Photos

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Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.5
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.5
A nice P1 variaton start in the Swain guide is Payton Paltz: start to the left of regular route under the big roof 15 above the ground. Up to roof, undercling traverse left, surmount overhang at notch to join Scuttlebutt at the arete. Nice and fun 5.9, excellent gear, easy to scout out from ground. Great for a budding 5.9 leader. May 6, 2013