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Routes in c. Moe (closure) to Harvest Moon

Ambien Knights T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Animal Farm T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
As the Cliff Turns T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
BM T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beauty and the Skink T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Boston Tree Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bush League T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Lite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
By the Toe, direct start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Catnip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cherokee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Day Tripper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Quacks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easter Time Too T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elf Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giddah! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good Friday Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gouda Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunks Burghers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Halfbeak T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Honky Tonk Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Interiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left meets Right T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Moxie T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Old and Mossy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Way or Another T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Orc Stone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Raven and the Cat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Route Awakening T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Saving Face T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Saving Grace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scuttlebutt T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Serfs' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shtick It T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Slab Shtick TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spic and Span T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Summer Breeze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whet Stone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wolf and the Swine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Woolly Clam Taco T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wrong Place, Right Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
You're in the wrong place, my friend T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zachariah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dick Williams, Bob Anderson, Steve Lessin, 1973.
Page Views: 797 total · 6/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Apr 14, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This is a short corner climb near White Pillar. The crux is the corner -- it felt pretty stiff for 5.8+. Start below and left, making a few hard steep-face moves as you approach the corner.

Rap tree anchor.

Location

Probably the best way to find this route is to go to White Pillar and then backtrack about 100' The route follows a clean and appealing left-facing corner that starts a bit off the ground. It's also just right of the striking right-leaning white flake of Giddah!

Protection

I found the crux hard to protect until I noticed a spot for a ball nut. A passing climber informed me that the only good pro for the crux was that ball nut that I had placed. There's other pro down lower but the ball nut made me way happier.

Photos

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SethG  
As of 2013 there was a tree with a fixed anchor, maybe this is a different tree from the one that fell. Apr 23, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Tricky Tricky Tricky. Once you figure it out, it's fun. Puzzling at first.
There is a tree with rings/slings at the top of P1. Apr 22, 2014
I just did this recently, and I found a placement for a TCU (Metolius, purple) that provided good protection for the crux. A Ballnut may well be helpful but for me, it wasn't essential. May 2, 2009