Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Dick Williams, Dave Loeks, 1971.
Page Views: 2,669 total · 16/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Apr 14, 2007
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This is an atypical Gunks route - rather than burly overhangs, it features delicate footwork on less-than-vertical rock. The protection rating is debatable since you can't really be sure of the tiny wires that protect the crux. I compensate by putting in lots of them.

The business starts after you clip the bolt -- climb a hard-to-protect groove to easier ground. Above, traverse left to a rap station atop White Pillar. A single rope gets you down.

Location

Locate this by finding the obvious chimney of White Pillar; Honky Tonk Woman climbs the face to the right of the chimney. The bolt is about 20' up and serves as a way to definitively locate the route.

Protection

After clipping the bolt, the route takes mainly small wires. Bring a wide assortment and you'll probably get in enough gear to feel OK at the crux.

Photos