Mountain Project Logo

Routes in c. Moe (closure) to Harvest Moon

Ambien Knights T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Animal Farm T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
As the Cliff Turns T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
BM T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beauty and the Skink T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Boston Tree Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bush League T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Lite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
By the Toe, direct start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Catnip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cherokee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Day Tripper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Quacks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easter Time Too T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elf Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giddah! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good Friday Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gouda Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunks Burghers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Halfbeak T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Honky Tonk Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Interiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left meets Right T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Moxie T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Old and Mossy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Way or Another T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Orc Stone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Raven and the Cat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Route Awakening T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Saving Face T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Saving Grace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scuttlebutt T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Serfs' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shtick It T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Slab Shtick TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spic and Span T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Summer Breeze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whet Stone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wolf and the Swine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Woolly Clam Taco T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wrong Place, Right Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
You're in the wrong place, my friend T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zachariah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dick Williams, Dave Loeks, 1971.
Page Views: 2,068 total, 16/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Apr 14, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is an atypical Gunks route - rather than burly overhangs, it features delicate footwork on less-than-vertical rock. The protection rating is debatable since you can't really be sure of the tiny wires that protect the crux. I compensate by putting in lots of them.

The business starts after you clip the bolt -- climb a hard-to-protect groove to easier ground. Above, traverse left to a rap station atop White Pillar. A single rope gets you down.

Location

Locate this by finding the obvious chimney of White Pillar; Honky Tonk Woman climbs the face to the right of the chimney. The bolt is about 20' up and serves as a way to definitively locate the route.

Protection

After clipping the bolt, the route takes mainly small wires. Bring a wide assortment and you'll probably get in enough gear to feel OK at the crux.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I agree with Julie...this climb is difficult and I don't think I could ever lead it. Felt desperate to the bolt and a few moves after. It climbs very different from what it looks from the ground. May 23, 2017
rogerbenton
  5.9 R
rogerbenton  
  5.9 R
Not so sure there is still gear between the bolt and the big #3 horizontal.

I was told of a small offset placement but the rock there appears to have been blown out. Looks like possible fresh rock scaring there. The small offset won't go and it's too shallow and flared there for wires.

There might be a marginal small wire placement one move before the bomber horizontal but by that point you are extremely run out with a small spinner bolt around 10-12 feet below your feet (ground fall potential). To me it made more sense to bust the move to the rail and get the sinker big cam.

Well, I busted the move and a small hold busted off in my left hand. I managed to hang on with my right and get the rail; the fall would have been a disaster.

SO:
- There is friable rock on this thing.
- There is not enough gear to protect the crux or the next couple moves
- There is serious fall potential between the bolt and the horizontal

Be careful leading this one.

Edit to add:
From the top of the white pillar block you can traverse out right over HTW to set directionals for TR. Jun 7, 2015
More head game than anything. I think you can use small pro before the bolt but nothing bomber, and from what I remember there is a little runout before you get to the huge horizontal at the top. Definitely TR first if your head isn't there. Mar 16, 2011
JSH

JSH    
I've led a reasonable number of 5.9s at the Gunks, and I'm usually a good face climber. This route had me desperate on TR! The holds are better-looking from below .... NB there's a fair amount of climbing (and an unfair amount of pro) before you get to the bolt. Jun 27, 2009