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Routes in Lower (CLOSED)

Berrycup T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caboose T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crescent Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hand Jive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penguins in Bondage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,067 total, 45/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 22, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. Details

Description

This is the obvious right-leaning, thin crack.
A beautiful climb.

Protection

Small.

Photos

Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
Still off limits, yes. Jun 27, 2015
Has anyone climbed this recently? Is it still off limits? Jun 24, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
First ascent: Steve Sutton, 1973. Does anyone know who did the first free ascent? Feb 12, 2015
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
Spectacular. The logical progression to the second pitch of Exasperator; a little steeper, a little more sustained, and a section of fingers and rings between the tips/smearing and thin hands sections.

Gear ran the gamut. Starts on small nuts and grey metolius, then widens consistently up to gold c4s. You could even plug a #4 at the top if you wanted, where the climbing gets a little more physical. Apr 5, 2013
Any updates on this? Oct 9, 2010
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
It's worth noting that this climb is currently off limits due to issues surrounding CN Rail's right-of-way along the tracks and their proximity to the whole Lower Malamute area.

Kevin McLane's most recent edition of the Squamish Guidebook has detailed information about what's legitimate and what isn't. The Climber's Access Society of BC is continuing to attempt to make more progress with CN; climbing here in the mean time certainly won't help the issue. The bad news is that some of the best cracks in Squamish are affected; the good news is that if you look at McLane's book you'll see that more routes are open than many people think. Apr 15, 2007