Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Rhodes, Barnes, 1989
Page Views: 4,019 total · 27/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

126 Opinions

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This line is only 5.10a after you reach the first jug. At 6'4", you can just make the first move static. After the first move, which is protected by a bolt, follow fun patina face climbing protected by finger sized cams. A couple bolts protect the middle section, but save a .75 camalot to protect the moves to the anchors.

This would be a 4 star route, except for the height dependent first move.


This is the third route from the right, but the second route which has some bolts.


Finger sized cams to #1 camalot
Salt Lake City, UT
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
great route. 4 stars because of the opening move. must do. Jan 25, 2007
Thayne aka TR
provo utah
  5.10a PG13
Thayne aka TR   provo utah
  5.10a PG13
this was the best climb of the trip! May 11, 2009
Brian G
Brian G  
Really fun route. It ate up stoppers! Jul 7, 2010
Portland, OR
cerickson   Portland, OR
I reached the first move statically (I'm 6'1), and so did my climbing partner - with much more effort - at 5'8. Even if you have to leap for it, it's amazing. Aug 20, 2010
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
Forgot to read the comments or check the guidebook before climbing this route. Saw some bolts and went for it. Ended up running it out until I was able to traverse a little link up with Live Wire. Then ran that out for a ways from the last bolt to the top. All in all, fun routes!! Jun 25, 2012
Note that even the shortest of people can get to the first hold by tugging on the first bolt. I did it to test the hold before stepping back down and making the jump. The rest of the climb is quite fun. A note to timid leaders such as myself: I placed a lot of gear, around 6 pieces from .75 C4 on down, so bring enough if you want to sew it up. Sep 27, 2012
how hard is the move of the boulder without grabbing the draw or jumping?? Aug 4, 2013
twellman   Cambridge
Crazy opening move (wouldn't want to miss... you'd certainly come back down onto the boulder) and fun easier climbing to the top. Aug 16, 2013
Jaren Watson
Jaren Watson   Idaho
I also neglected to read the description here and found myself feeling relieved that the climbing was indeed only 10a. Awful lot of space between those bolts. Regardless, a great line. Aug 21, 2013
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
This climb is super fun; novelty start is awesome then incredible huge juggy patinas to a tricky right-traverse finish above your last piece. One of my top 3 favs at the City. Jun 12, 2014
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
At 6' tall, I could do the first move statically at around .10c Aug 17, 2015
Not sure if everyone is talking about the same start? Definitely the jump to jug is obvious. I was no where close to reaching that statically at 5' 11" I found an alternate start though, which involved left hand out left onto a bulge, right hand onto another bulge, and was able to get a foot on the wall and pull myself semi-statically to the mega jug that others leapt for. Jun 23, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
Everyone needs to have the experience of standing on top of that boulder on lead getting ready to go for the opening move... I was laughing my ass off.

This route is pure fun and never felt harder than 5.9 after the opening move. The opening move is as height-dependent as a move can be so it's tough to grade. For taller climbers, it won't even be a move. For shorter ones, it might be literally impossible. Sep 6, 2017
phylp   Upland
Just did this one again this summer... Sorry, not jumping - 10a, A0 Oct 19, 2017
Matty Coles
Salt Lake City
Matty Coles   Salt Lake City
Fun Route. Pretty mellow after the dyno. I'm 6'0" and still had to jump about a foot. Anchors are over the slab finish and shared with the route on the right. (don't go into the big crack on the left at the top) May 9, 2018
Marjorie Veilleux
Rimouski, QC
Marjorie Veilleux   Rimouski, QC
I'm 5'1'' and often have to dyno to get myself out of trouble. The start dyno of this route, even from the boulder, was impossible for me, and I tried my best for 45 minutes (on top rope). Became A0 for me too :P. The rest of the route is very sweet and much easier. Dec 4, 2018