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Routes in Transformer Corridor

Chomping at the Bit T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dynamo Hum S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heat Wave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just a Pretty Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Live Wire T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Bolter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Circuit T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vibrator T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Rhodes, Barnes, 1989
Page Views: 3,655 total, 27/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


102 Opinions

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Description

This line is only 5.10a after you reach the first jug. At 6'4", you can just make the first move static. After the first move, which is protected by a bolt, follow fun patina face climbing protected by finger sized cams. A couple bolts protect the middle section, but save a .75 camalot to protect the moves to the anchors.

This would be a 4 star route, except for the height dependent first move.

Location

This is the third route from the right, but the second route which has some bolts.

Protection

Finger sized cams to #1 camalot
phylp
Upland
 
phylp   Upland
 
Just did this one again this summer... Sorry, not jumping - 10a, A0 Oct 19, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Everyone needs to have the experience of standing on top of that boulder on lead getting ready to go for the opening move... I was laughing my ass off.

This route is pure fun and never felt harder than 5.9 after the opening move. The opening move is as height-dependent as a move can be so it's tough to grade. For taller climbers, it won't even be a move. For shorter ones, it might be literally impossible. Sep 6, 2017
Not sure if everyone is talking about the same start? Definitely the jump to jug is obvious. I was no where close to reaching that statically at 5' 11" I found an alternate start though, which involved left hand out left onto a bulge, right hand onto another bulge, and was able to get a foot on the wall and pull myself semi-statically to the mega jug that others leapt for. Jun 23, 2017
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
 
At 6' tall, I could do the first move statically at around .10c Aug 17, 2015
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
This climb is super fun; novelty start is awesome then incredible huge juggy patinas to a tricky right-traverse finish above your last piece. One of my top 3 favs at the City. Jun 12, 2014
Jaren Watson
Boise, Idaho
 
Jaren Watson   Boise, Idaho
 
I also neglected to read the description here and found myself feeling relieved that the climbing was indeed only 10a. Awful lot of space between those bolts. Regardless, a great line. Aug 21, 2013
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Crazy opening move (wouldn't want to miss... you'd certainly come back down onto the boulder) and fun easier climbing to the top. Aug 16, 2013
RBeers
 
RBeers  
 
how hard is the move of the boulder without grabbing the draw or jumping?? Aug 4, 2013
Note that even the shortest of people can get to the first hold by tugging on the first bolt. I did it to test the hold before stepping back down and making the jump. The rest of the climb is quite fun. A note to timid leaders such as myself: I placed a lot of gear, around 6 pieces from .75 C4 on down, so bring enough if you want to sew it up. Sep 27, 2012
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
 
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
 
Forgot to read the comments or check the guidebook before climbing this route. Saw some bolts and went for it. Ended up running it out until I was able to traverse a little link up with Live Wire. Then ran that out for a ways from the last bolt to the top. All in all, fun routes!! Jun 25, 2012
cerickson
Portland, OR
  5.10a
cerickson   Portland, OR
  5.10a
I reached the first move statically (I'm 6'1), and so did my climbing partner - with much more effort - at 5'8. Even if you have to leap for it, it's amazing. Aug 20, 2010
Brian G
  5.10a
Brian G  
  5.10a
Really fun route. It ate up stoppers! Jul 7, 2010
Thayne aka TR
provo utah
  5.10a PG13
Thayne aka TR   provo utah
  5.10a PG13
this was the best climb of the trip! May 11, 2009
Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
great route. 4 stars because of the opening move. must do. Jan 25, 2007