PRINT: Rock Climb Short Circuit, City of Rocks

Short Circuit

5.10a, Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 269 votes
FA: Barnes, Boyle, Rhoads 1989
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Transformer Corridor

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

This line is only 5.10a after you reach the first jug. At 6'4", you can just make the first move static. After the first move, which is protected by a bolt, follow fun patina face climbing protected by finger sized cams. A couple bolts protect the middle section, but save a .75 camalot to protect the moves to the anchors.

This would be a 4 star route, except for the height dependent first move.

Location

This is the third route from the right, but the second route which has some bolts.

Protection

Finger sized cams to #1 camalot

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

After the dynamic start and heading up with the kitchen sink. May 2011.

Shane Nelson cruises up Short Circuit, 5.10a while climbers atop Flaming Rock (east face) admire. Photo taken from Dynamo Hum.

Tyson, with all points off...whats not to like

Short Circuit

such great rock!

My favorite route on the wall, and a easy tick if your looking to get your first 10

Dyno for some, reach for others

A big jump to crimps and jugs is the name of the game

The final moves to the chains. Great finish.

Just after the fun jump start.

Notice the starting jug at the start. This is the one you will have to dyno to, if you are under 6 foot.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT

great route. 4 stars because of the opening move. must do. Jan 25, 2007

Thayne aka TR
provo utah

5.10a PG13

this was the best climb of the trip! May 11, 2009

Brian G

5.10a

Really fun route. It ate up stoppers! Jul 7, 2010

cerickson
Portland, OR

5.10a

I reached the first move statically (I'm 6'1), and so did my climbing partner - with much more effort - at 5'8. Even if you have to leap for it, it's amazing. Aug 20, 2010

Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City

Forgot to read the comments or check the guidebook before climbing this route. Saw some bolts and went for it. Ended up running it out until I was able to traverse a little link up with Live Wire. Then ran that out for a ways from the last bolt to the top. All in all, fun routes!! Jun 25, 2012

bmdhacks
Bellingham, WA

Note that even the shortest of people can get to the first hold by tugging on the first bolt. I did it to test the hold before stepping back down and making the jump. The rest of the climb is quite fun. A note to timid leaders such as myself: I placed a lot of gear, around 6 pieces from .75 C4 on down, so bring enough if you want to sew it up. Sep 27, 2012

RBeers

how hard is the move of the boulder without grabbing the draw or jumping?? Aug 4, 2013

Tyler Wellman
Cambridge

Crazy opening move (wouldn't want to miss... you'd certainly come back down onto the boulder) and fun easier climbing to the top. Aug 16, 2013

Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY

This climb is super fun; novelty start is awesome then incredible huge juggy patinas to a tricky right-traverse finish above your last piece. One of my top 3 favs at the City. Jun 12, 2014

Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT

At 6' tall, I could do the first move statically at around .10c Aug 17, 2015

Jake Davis
San Francisco, CA

Not sure if everyone is talking about the same start? Definitely the jump to jug is obvious. I was no where close to reaching that statically at 5' 11" I found an alternate start though, which involved left hand out left onto a bulge, right hand onto another bulge, and was able to get a foot on the wall and pull myself semi-statically to the mega jug that others leapt for. Jun 23, 2017

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire

Everyone needs to have the experience of standing on top of that boulder on lead getting ready to go for the opening move... I was laughing my ass off.

This route is pure fun and never felt harder than 5.9 after the opening move. The opening move is as height-dependent as a move can be so it's tough to grade. For taller climbers, it won't even be a move. For shorter ones, it might be literally impossible. Sep 6, 2017

phylp phylp
Upland

Just did this one again this summer... Sorry, not jumping - 10a, A0 Oct 19, 2017

Matty Coles
Salt Lake City

Fun Route. Pretty mellow after the dyno. I'm 6'0" and still had to jump about a foot. Anchors are over the slab finish and shared with the route on the right. (don't go into the big crack on the left at the top) May 9, 2018

Ty Gittins
Bozeman

Short person beta for the start:

Head right of the bolt/jug you are going for and get a small, positive crimp with the left hand. Eye a tiny hold for the left foot. Stand up and dead point to the jug with the right hand. Awesome route! May 18, 2020

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO

Steel ClimbTech anchor hooks placed on anchor, provided by the American Safe Climbing Association. Consider a donation at safeclimbing.org Jul 18, 2021

Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT

Funnest climb ever, shorter the better, send it! Sep 27, 2021

Jams McCarrick

5.10a

Scout the jug from the right. Clip the bolt. And JUMP! So fun. Small cams/medium nuts for ridiculously fun middle section. Nice medium cam in horizontal break (I used #2 dmm dragon) protect the final moves to chains. I found the final moves a bit tricky - moving right makes it a bit easier. Jun 6, 2022

Vicki traddy
Boise, ID

Fun climb! Even if you have to yard up the first bolt (which I did because I'm 5'1). But felt pretty easy for 10a because there's jugs galore. Climbed more like a sport route but you get to place gear. Going right on the final mini bulge makes it a bit easier Jun 19, 2023