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Routes in Eagle Canyon, Head Of Sinbad NE

Mother Goose- Nursery Rhymes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nape's Needle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross, Billy Rothstein Layne Potter. 6th Sept, 2006
Page Views: 1,445 total, 11/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Sep 19, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This spire was named after the 60' Napes Needle pinnacle located in the English Lake District. First climbed in 1886, this ascent is often quoted as being the climb that started the true sport of rock climbing. Starts on the north side of the spire below a line of cracks.

P1) Climb the slab past bolts to the crack/groove. A mixture of bolts and intermittent cam and stopper placements brings one to a good ledge and double anchors. 100' 5.8+ C2

P2) From the ledge follow bolts out right to a final crack that leads to the summit. 60' C1


From the iron gate on I-70 located just west of mile marker 121, drive 50 yards through the gate to a right turn, then a left turn at 100 yards down a 4X4 road. Drive for about 1.6 miles to the spire. The walk to the spire takes 5 mins.


Set of stoppers . Cams. Friends #.5,#1 #3, #5. Camalots #1 #2.
Maura and I climbed this today... John, I have your biner if you want to come get it. I do expect a six pack reward though... :)
The C2 section did have some real soft rock, I must admit I was pretty nervous and was ready to take the fall. I got some smaller nuts to stick in the sandy stuff. Probably size 4-6 BD stoppers.
For the gear list, be sure to bring a full rack of stoppers, and probably one set of cams including small ones. The largest cam I used was an older BD #3.5, had the #5 on the rack according to the gear list, but didn't use it.
According to the summit register and Johns biner, this was the second ascent of the tower. May 10, 2010
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
Thanks Paul.

I appreciate the feedback. I look forward to going back and giving it another try. After falling, I sometimes start to get tunnel vision and don't see other options.

For the record, 175lbs., can't blame the weight... Oct 30, 2006
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Hi John. Sorry you had some problems on P1. I would prefer you did not use pins in these cracks, we rarely if ever use pitons on our first ascents. ( odd times drilled angles in very soft rock that will not take a bolt). We think in desert sandstone if one gets to a situation where even the smallest stopper will not fit, perhaps only a knife blade piton,its preferable to place a bolt rather that destroy the rock with placing and removing pitons . . We ourselves only use wire stoppers and cams. Perhaps you need to loose some weight?..Stick at it and try some stoppers first.... Best Wishes Paul Ross Oct 28, 2006
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
Gorgeous looking tower, but...

I am looking for any advice from whomever climbs this next. I got to the "C2" section (looks to be about 10 feet long) when I had 2 placements blow out when I weighted them (this is above the last bolt on pitch 1 in the thin cracks.) I got in a great nut, then a great lowe ball, but then it ended for me. I had everything from lowe balls to aliens to hb offsets, but after not wanting my third try to blow decided to head down to my truck to get the pins. Once down, the ethics police came to mind and I realized that the tower wasn't going anywhere, and that pounding on a route even in the desert after it has gone clean wasn't cool, at least until someone gives me more beta or I have the blessing of the FA team. I'll take either! Failure sucks. Oct 22, 2006