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Routes in Hillbilly Rock 1

Boy Howdy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirt Shower T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoo-doggy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Reckon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I'll be Dipped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Like Water for Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Square Dance S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio, 2001
Page Views: 507 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 12, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

It is a fairly powerful route for its 35 feet of climbing and its moderate grade. Shorter folks may have trouble at the 1st bolt and call it 11c, but strong, taller climbers might call it 10+. Fire up to positive but small holds to the left of the 1st bolt. Go left first, then up to a good side-pull/pocket. Then, go R, then hand-traverse left. To finish, there are 2 ways to go. Left seemed easier. Good 1-2-3 punch with Like Water for Bob, this, and I Reckon. Nice route, especially if your time is limited & your partner is rumbling about going to Flagstaff to get a pump!

For the Hymenoptera-sensitive, there were wasps in the first side-pull pocket of this climb!

Location

This is the 2nd climb from the left on this cliff. It looks harder than it is.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
A locker might be advisable on the first draw, because the awkward first crux means that falls may happen on that single bolt. Best to have it clipped in well. Jul 13, 2010
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Nice climb. The crux getting to bolt 2 can be a bit of a stretch for the short. I got my left hand on a crimp, got my feet high, and reached way up for the pocket directly to the left of bolt 2. From there, it is a balancy move up and right before clipping 3. At the top, go a little left when going over the upper ledge. Sep 21, 2008