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Routes in Hillbilly Rock 1

Boy Howdy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirt Shower T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoo-doggy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Reckon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I'll be Dipped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Like Water for Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Square Dance S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio, 2001
Page Views: 166 total, 1/month
Shared By: Mark Dixon on May 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the leftmost route at Hillbilly - it goes up a short, black face. It is short, powerful, sharp but not painful. This is an exercise in crimpers and underclings. Avoid surprises by scoping the location of all the bolts before leaving the ground. I thought 12a was a reasonable grade, but it's a hard route to onsight, since many of the holds are hard to evaluate (or even see!) from below.

Addendum: For the Hymenoptera-sensitive, there can be a fairly tenacious bunch of wasps on this climb!

Protection

4 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
Hard for the grade. Oct 28, 2016
slim

  5.12a/b
slim    
  5.12a/b
Having done this route both ways (i.e. following the bolt line up and left, going straight up/slightly right) here are a few comments:

The left version felt way hard for 12a, particularly considering that the FA party generally grades things pretty friendly. I don't know if the heat/humidity had something to do with it, but there are some brutally smooth holds up there. Clipping the bolt was a bitch. I would probably call this way 12b or so, definitely as hard or harder than any 12b I have done yet this year.

The right version is easier, but there is some mud and vegetation to contend with. Also, the bolt ends up being way out left and hard to clip.

Between the poison ivy choked approach, length of the route, etc., this is probably a half star route. Not the worst route in Boulder Canyon but probably not worth the hike. Jul 3, 2013
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
This is a nice, short 12 that makes the walk up worthwhile. Rolofson shows three 12 cruxes (12a, 12b, and 12a), but I don't agree with this assessment. Clipping the first two bolts is much easier than 12. From there, reach up and left to the sidepull. This is the crux section, but is easy 12, not mid-12. A key hold is a crimper ledge above and right of bolt three; don't mess around with the slopey stuff left of 3. Another cruxy move follows to get to bolt 4. Sep 21, 2008