Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hillbilly Rock 1

Boy Howdy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirt Shower T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoo-doggy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Reckon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I'll be Dipped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Like Water for Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Square Dance S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

New crags seem to magically appear in Boulder Canyon... how long can it last? Previously unnamed, the lowest of the Hillbilly Rocks offers six routes graded 5.8 to 5.12a. The right side harbors the easiest route and the poorest stone - the rock gets better and the climbing harder as you go left. It is in the shade in the morning.

L->R:

A. I Reckon, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Boy Howdy, 11, 1p, 35', bolts.
C. Like Water For Bob, 10 PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Dirt Shower, 11-, 1p, 50', gear.
E. I'll Be Dipped, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Square Dance, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Hoo-doggy, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Upstream from the Riviera, park in the pullout on the right (N side), just where the road widens to include a passing lane. The Inca Stone (aka Truth or Consequences) is just up the road and also on the right. Walk up the road a few yards, and find a poor trail that follows a steep drainage up the hill. There is a fair amount of poison ivy in the gully, especially on the R side.

From the bottom, you can just see the glimmer of bolts on the left-most of the six routes.

7 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Hillbilly Rock 1 Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Hillbilly Rock 1

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Hillbilly Rock 1 »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
Watch out for the thick poison ivy and kicking rocks down the steep, loose approach onto the street. Nov 3, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
There is still a bolt with a missing hanger on the first three routes on the right. We slipped a wired nut cable over it, but it should be replaced at some point. Jan 3, 2014
dseltzer
Boulder, CO
dseltzer   Boulder, CO
The rightmost three routes on this wall are missing a hanger on the first bolt (they share the first couple bolts). It's probably a good idea to take an extra piece of pro for these until someone can replace the hanger. The bolt itself looks to be in OK condition, but depending on how long it's been exposed, it may need to be replaced. Oct 21, 2013
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
Fun day out and had the crag to ourselves. Things of note: lots of wasps all over this crag - and this after the canyon got below freezing last night - be aware. Also - the D'Antonio guidebook has I'll Be Dipped, Square Dance, and Hoo-Doggy with separate anchors, but we only found 2. The approach is steep but very manageable. Oct 7, 2012
Andrew Shoemaker
Olympia, WA
Andrew Shoemaker   Olympia, WA
Was up here today and really enjoyed myself! We were looking for something new to us and a little obscure away from crowds, and it was definitely found here. The routes, albeit short, were not too far from great in my opinion...definitely deserve more stars than Antonio gives in his guidebook. The approach is steep and loose, but it's really not too bad at all. We did all six routes from right to left. The 5.8 was one of the better 5.8s I've done in the canyon with really cool moves near the top. The .11 and the .12 felt really burly to me, but I am 5'6". I would give the .11 a grade of .11c/d for shorter people. Even the .10b next to it felt like .10c or d to me. All in all though, I would say this crag is certainly a place to check out if you're getting bored of the more popular and crowded areas. Mar 18, 2012
Jake N.  
Climbed here yesterday and felt a little misled by reports of a short approach. While it's not far, the gully is very steep and loose. I agree with Mark- the best "trail" is on the left side. The routes were fun though, except that the top anchors are a little screwy on the right side and rope drag is a problem- be prepared to rap off every time.

Also, we found an empty rope bag up there- if it's yours, describe it for me, and I will be happy to return it to you.

Does anyone know if there is any new development going on the little cliffs around this area? Sep 11, 2010
I visited this crag yesterday. Worth the one day visit, but now sporting many thistles at the base, but doable. There are 6 routes working easier to harder from right to left. The best approach(avoiding all Ivy): head up the right side of the drawthat you see straight up from the very beginning (going up canyon) of the turnout. Take this straight up to a cliff and skirt left to Hillbilly. Jun 17, 2005
The crag has a slight western exposure, so was in the shade till noon when we visited in May. And if you follow the existing trail you'll have more fun than we did wandering through the poison ivy covered rock slopes. From the parking described above, scramble up to a large pine tree. The trail then skirts a low wall, and stays on the left side (looking up) of the gully. A few cairns would help channel traffic and eventually lead to a better trail, if anybody got motivated to build them. Jul 20, 2003
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
Wow! The leap from 10c to 11b on these routes is intense. Perhaps I was suffering from cranial rectitus, but the 10bs and the 10c seemed underrated while the 11b and 12a were quite burley for their grades. Oct 13, 2002
I did not name the rock. But, hey, a lot of work must have gone into these hick names!

BTW, there are two more routes on the left side that I have not done. The left-most is I Reckon, 12a, and can (barely) be seen from the road. Right of this is Boy Howdy, 11b. Oct 1, 2002

More About Hillbilly Rock 1

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Hillbilly Rock 1 (22)

Most Popular · Newest