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Early Access
Routes in Southwest Buttress
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Black Tiger T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Jaguar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Resistance, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Solution, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 39.99863, -105.41169 |
| FA: | Chris Brislawn and Jim Swenson, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,268 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Rossiter on Jul 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed.
Details
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Description
The following description is based on an ascent of this route by Richard and Joyce Rossiter in 1989. This route takes the ultimate line just right of center on the Southwest Buttress. Begin from the right side of the Ledge With 3 Trees.
Climb a hand crack and a finger crack through a bulge to the first bolt (about 2 feet above the crack), then work straight up the wall on solution holes and tiny edges to the second bolt. Even thinner climbing leads to the third bolt. This is where most people bail. Continue up perilous terrain to a tips crack that curves up and right (good pro: small Aliens here), lieback to a second short finger crack, and climb more easily to belay from a vertical 2-inch crack on the right. One may also continue up and left to a new ring anchor placed 24 July 2006. Lower off 80 feet. In 1989 we climbed to the top of the buttress and endured a truly heinous descent through fallen trees, dense underbrush and loose talus.
Black Tiger is a lead I am not inclined to repeat. If I could find Chris Brislawn, I would ask his permission to refit the bolts on this beautiful route. The original bolts are now rusty with old SMC hangers and could be updated and arranged more effectively (I think).
Location
From Wall of the Dead, hike the trail up and right, then back left. Watch for a new trail that leads up and left to the bottom of the Southwest Buttress. Scramble up some 25 feet to the Ledge With 3 Trees. Look for a hand crack and a finger crack through a bulge that leads to a sloping stance with an old bolt.
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