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Routes in Southwest Buttress

Black Tiger T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Jaguar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Resistance, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solution, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006
Page Views: 146 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 22, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Begin from the middle tree on the Ledge With 3 Trees (where Black Tiger begins). Climb straight up a crack (fingers and hands) to a narrow ramp that ascends to the left. Pull up on a jug and clip the first bolt. Continue straight up past 3 more bolts. The rock is super solid face/slab with amazing/delightful/necessary solution holes. The crux is perhaps midway along the bolts.

Location

This route ascends the left side of the beautiful face/slab of the Southwest Buttress about 25 feet left of Black Tiger.

Note: a new trail leads to the bottom of the buttress and up along the south side to the top of the Southwest Buttress, though there is little need to go there now that proper anchors have been installed. From the point where the new trail meets the bottom of the buttress, scramble left and up maybe 25 feet to the ledge with 3 trees. All the routes but Jaguar begin from this ledge.

Protection

Gear from 1 inch to 2 inches. QDs for gear, 4 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor with rings. Lower off 80 feet to the Ledge With 3 Trees. A short, easy down climb takes you back to the approach trail.

Photos

Nick Wilder
The Bubble
 
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
 
I found it reasonable to climb above and to the right of the potato chip without much risk of falling in (as long as the belayer is attentive). Still, it freaked me out a bit! Apr 24, 2016
Potential fall onto the "death flake" made this route kinda scary. But I did enjoy the face/slab climbing on pockets above it. Sep 30, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Didn't enjoy this much. Not as clean as The Resistance. There's a death flake below that it feels like you could hit, or worse, straddle. There's the big flake behind you that you can palm or stem to at any point, which I did the first time up, and so this route felt contrived. Did it twice and both times I had to lunge the last move to the jug. Sep 24, 2006