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Routes in (2) Silver Bullet Bluff

Bite the Bullet TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fandango T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glenns Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jack of Heart T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Midnight Warriors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Miss Kity TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Panama Red T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superman T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 622 total, 5/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jul 21, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This route is an ok toprope and a very sketchy lead. There are a couple of bolts with no hangers and the protection is scarce to non-existant for the middle sections with plenty of groundfall potential.

If someone were to come in and replace the 1/4" hangerless studs with a couple of solid bolts it'd be ok, but keep it as a toprope for the time being.

I wish I had known this yesterday when I started up it, since my best piece of pro for the middle half of the climb was a small nut with the cable cinched up tight to a barely-protruding 1/4" stud.

Location

Start in the big groove on the left of the wall. Climb up through a little overhanging section with some flared pods for holds, then go up the face and finish out on a juggy headwall.

Protection

There are 3 bolts with chains at the top, although if you really feel like leading it take some nuts and a couple small cams up to 1" or so.

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