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Routes in Bear's Lair

Basilica S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grin and Bear It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In A Rut S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Movin' On S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of the Wind S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tourmaline Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wafer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stuemke
Page Views: 729 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nate Oakes on May 30, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Basilica consists mostly of sharp conglomerate, with a short, blank-slab type start. Lots of pebbles and crystals, though most aren't great for holds. A stripe of orange lichen ascends just to the right of this route. There were a few easier sections, mainly below the second bolt and above the sixth, but the rest felt pretty sustained. Look for a sweet hold about 2/3 up in which you can wrap your thumb, first, and second finger around one crystal, and your pinky around another right next to it. Since this route appears to be seldom climbed, there is a fair amount of crud on the bottom half of the route, but it's worth doing. Belay is on a steep, loose slope.

Location

See my note on Bear's Lair. Basilica lies on a prominent rock formation that includes a spire just to the right. Wafer is just uphill - see the latest RMNP guidebook for a decent sketch. From the approach trail to The Monastery, head left about 20 yards before entering the Vestibule. Pass a couple of rock formations on your right, the second of which has two bolted routes, and bush-whack to the left for about 150 yards. The rock basically lies at the same elevation as the uppermost prow of the last ridge you hike over to get to The Monastery, and it's near the steep descent into the valley on your left as you hike downhill. It took me and Chris about 30 minutes to find it with the guidebook - good luck!

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. No need for slings at the anchor.

Photos

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chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.11b
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.11b
Sustained beautiful movement. I feel sorry for the belayer as this has a sharp decline into the valley all along the base of the rock. I wonder how Stuemke ever found this, or why he decided to bolt it. But I'm glad he did! May 31, 2006