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Routes in Bear's Lair
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Basilica S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grin and Bear It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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In A Rut S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Movin' On S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Out of the Wind S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tourmaline Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wafer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Stuemke |
| Page Views: | 1,421 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Oakes on May 30, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Area closure - now lifted. Previously: Storm Mt./Cedar Park road is reopened to all
Details
Per Kurtz: The Monastery is open again! fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Per Julie Nelson: the forest is closed due to after fire concerns in this area until June 30, 2021. There is a sign at the trailhead about the closure. See the US Forest Service website for further updates.
Previously: per Bruce Hildenbrand: Storm Mountain Road is open to all.
Per Hank C: the Storm Mt./Cedar Park area is closed to locals-only traffic for the time being due to wildfire concerns. We were turned away by a park ranger this morning (9/12/2020).
Per Julie Nelson: the forest is closed due to after fire concerns in this area until June 30, 2021. There is a sign at the trailhead about the closure. See the US Forest Service website for further updates.
Previously: per Bruce Hildenbrand: Storm Mountain Road is open to all.
Per Hank C: the Storm Mt./Cedar Park area is closed to locals-only traffic for the time being due to wildfire concerns. We were turned away by a park ranger this morning (9/12/2020).
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Basilica consists mostly of sharp conglomerate, with a short, blank-slab type start. Lots of pebbles and crystals, though most aren't great for holds. A stripe of orange lichen ascends just to the right of this route. There were a few easier sections, mainly below the second bolt and above the sixth, but the rest felt pretty sustained. Look for a sweet hold about 2/3 up in which you can wrap your thumb, first, and second finger around one crystal, and your pinky around another right next to it. Since this route appears to be seldom climbed, there is a fair amount of crud on the bottom half of the route, but it's worth doing. Belay is on a steep, loose slope.
Location
See my note on Bear's Lair. Basilica lies on a prominent rock formation that includes a spire just to the right. Wafer is just uphill - see the latest RMNP guidebook for a decent sketch. From the approach trail to The Monastery, head left about 20 yards before entering the Vestibule. Pass a couple of rock formations on your right, the second of which has two bolted routes, and bush-whack to the left for about 150 yards. The rock basically lies at the same elevation as the uppermost prow of the last ridge you hike over to get to The Monastery, and it's near the steep descent into the valley on your left as you hike downhill. It took me and Chris about 30 minutes to find it with the guidebook - good luck!
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