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Routes in Bear's Lair

Basilica S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grin and Bear It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In A Rut S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Movin' On S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of the Wind S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tourmaline Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wafer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 101 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Oakes on May 30, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route ascends an arete on sharp conglomerate. Make use of the dihedral to your right, or stay left of the arete for a harder ascent. The guidebook lists this route as 5.9-, but I respectfully submit that this route is at least 5.9+, as there are some committing moves with fewer options than most 5.9s I've climbed. As with most Monastery routes, there is a significant runout between the last bolt and the anchors, which are shared with the 5.11 route to the left. A short and dirty climb, I was tempted to give this route a bomb. Props to Chris Deulen for leading this route (and TR'ing the 11 next door) in the dark.

Location

As you head left off the main path to the Monastery, look to your left. This route is the one in the middle that climbs the obvious arete.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, which lies above the 5.11 route to the left. You might want to bring a t-shirt or some slings to combat the rope drag on sharp rock at the top.

Photos

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The runout at the top is definitely hairy. I seconded this route and after I cleaned the last draw before the anchors I had images of taking a winger across a cheese grater-like slab.

To add insult to injury amidst my struggle; the guy who led it did it in his Chacos. Effin Gunnison kids! Jul 24, 2007