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Routes in Bear's Lair

Basilica S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grin and Bear It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In A Rut S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Movin' On S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of the Wind S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tourmaline Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wafer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 122 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nate Oakes on May 30, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route ascends an arete on sharp conglomerate. Make use of the dihedral to your right, or stay left of the arete for a harder ascent. The guidebook lists this route as 5.9-, but I respectfully submit that this route is at least 5.9+, as there are some committing moves with fewer options than most 5.9s I've climbed. As with most Monastery routes, there is a significant runout between the last bolt and the anchors, which are shared with the 5.11 route to the left. A short and dirty climb, I was tempted to give this route a bomb. Props to Chris Deulen for leading this route (and TR'ing the 11 next door) in the dark.

Location [Suggest Change]

As you head left off the main path to the Monastery, look to your left. This route is the one in the middle that climbs the obvious arete.

Protection [Suggest Change]

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, which lies above the 5.11 route to the left. You might want to bring a t-shirt or some slings to combat the rope drag on sharp rock at the top.


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The runout at the top is definitely hairy. I seconded this route and after I cleaned the last draw before the anchors I had images of taking a winger across a cheese grater-like slab.

To add insult to injury amidst my struggle; the guy who led it did it in his Chacos. Effin Gunnison kids! Jul 24, 2007

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