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Routes in Scud Wall

Atta Boy, Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banoffee S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bombs over Crag Bag S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy I Gotta Go S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climb Like A Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doggin' Dude S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duck Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Girls' Day Out S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Dome S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leave it to Bieber S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mei Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rubber Soul S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scud Alert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smithereens S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm of the Century S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stud Alert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
You Go Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: David Doll
Page Views: 3,466 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 25, 2006
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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129 Opinions

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Description

Boulder the mini-crux off the ground over the mini-roof and then romp up the slab. Work on the right set-up moves into the roof for the lip encounter. Once your feet are above the lip, relax, get a stance and clip those anchors. Possibly a tad harder than 10b, or just a good stout 10b.

Location

The middle of Scud Wall, obvious lower and upper roofs define the root. Just right of Duck Soup (5.9).

Protection

6 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
  5.10c
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
  5.10c
Maybe that one roof move is 10c, but the rest is cruisy. Aug 2, 2010
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
The start can be tricky if you don't use a hard to see hold. Aug 2, 2010
Eckhard
Denver, CO
 
Eckhard   Denver, CO
 
Wow I need to practice pulling roofs as this one got me! Hit the pocket high and to the left, moved through all three pockets on the right, but couldn't yank my long body high enough to get my damn feet up!! Super cruz up to that part though. Watch out 10 leaders it'll get ya!! Jul 11, 2011
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Did this on our first trip to Sinks in July 2013.

As a climber who loves steep but short bouldery sections, this route was right up my alley. A great rest stance under the final roof lets you work out the sequence and downclimb if you don't get it initially. After reaching blindly over the last bolt under the roof and finding nothing, I located the right-ward traverse setup and then increasingly better holds after committing over the roof from there.

If you take that route, just go for it and keep moving! The holds above the lip get sequentially better if you commit, and the feeling of pulling that left leg over to the good edge feels great once you get it. Jul 18, 2013
Beau Skelton
Palm Desert, UT
 
Beau Skelton   Palm Desert, UT
 
I love this route to death. Amazing roof pull with HUGE pockets. This one makes you feel like a real stud! May 21, 2015
M.Ish
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
M.Ish   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
This route would be something special to onsight. It is no harder than 10b/c as long as you know exactly what you are up against. A stick clip is handy for the start. Aug 21, 2016

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