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Stud Alert
5.10c,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 188
votes
FA: David Doll
Wyoming
> Lander Area
> Sinks Canyon
> Scud Wall
Description
Boulder the mini-crux off the ground over the mini-roof and then romp up the slab. Work on the right set-up moves into the roof for the lip encounter. Once your feet are above the lip, relax, get a stance and clip those anchors. Possibly a tad harder than 10b, or just a good stout 10b.
Location
The middle of Scud Wall, obvious lower and upper roofs define the root. Just right of Duck Soup (5.9).
Protection
8 bolts to anchors.
Squamish, BC
Kearney, NE
Denver, CO
Salt Lake City, UT
As a climber who loves steep but short bouldery sections, this route was right up my alley. A great rest stance under the final roof lets you work out the sequence and downclimb if you don't get it initially. After reaching blindly over the last bolt under the roof and finding nothing, I located the right-ward traverse setup and then increasingly better holds after committing over the roof from there.
If you take that route, just go for it and keep moving! The holds above the lip get sequentially better if you commit, and the feeling of pulling that left leg over to the good edge feels great once you get it. Jul 18, 2013
Palm Desert, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
Boulder, CO
Otherwise, really fun! Incredible roof at the top. Sep 9, 2019
the road!