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Stud Alert

5.10c, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 130 votes
FA: David Doll
Wyoming > Lander Area > Sinks Canyon > Scud Wall

Description

Boulder the mini-crux off the ground over the mini-roof and then romp up the slab. Work on the right set-up moves into the roof for the lip encounter. Once your feet are above the lip, relax, get a stance and clip those anchors. Possibly a tad harder than 10b, or just a good stout 10b.

Location

The middle of Scud Wall, obvious lower and upper roofs define the root. Just right of Duck Soup (5.9).

Protection

6 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The easy moves to the roof
[Hide Photo] The easy moves to the roof
pulling the roof
[Hide Photo] pulling the roof
Jedtsada, poised to pull the roof on Stud Alert
[Hide Photo] Jedtsada, poised to pull the roof on Stud Alert
pulling the second roof
[Hide Photo] pulling the second roof

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Maybe that one roof move is 10c, but the rest is cruisy. Aug 2, 2010
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
[Hide Comment] The start can be tricky if you don't use a hard to see hold. Aug 2, 2010
Eckhard
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Wow I need to practice pulling roofs as this one got me! Hit the pocket high and to the left, moved through all three pockets on the right, but couldn't yank my long body high enough to get my damn feet up!! Super cruz up to that part though. Watch out 10 leaders it'll get ya!! Jul 11, 2011
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Did this on our first trip to Sinks in July 2013.

As a climber who loves steep but short bouldery sections, this route was right up my alley. A great rest stance under the final roof lets you work out the sequence and downclimb if you don't get it initially. After reaching blindly over the last bolt under the roof and finding nothing, I located the right-ward traverse setup and then increasingly better holds after committing over the roof from there.

If you take that route, just go for it and keep moving! The holds above the lip get sequentially better if you commit, and the feeling of pulling that left leg over to the good edge feels great once you get it. Jul 18, 2013
Beau Skelton
Palm Desert, UT
 
[Hide Comment] I love this route to death. Amazing roof pull with HUGE pockets. This one makes you feel like a real stud! May 21, 2015
M.Ish
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] This route would be something special to onsight. It is no harder than 10b/c as long as you know exactly what you are up against. A stick clip is handy for the start. Aug 21, 2016