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Routes in Pillow Wall

Chlorox T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack-a-Pogo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Davidson Dihedral T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Geekus Amongst Us T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ivory Snow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Marilyn Chambers Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Panza Roja T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Pillow Case T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillow Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pillow Stuffing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillow Talk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Davidson and Jim Haisley
Page Views: 1,225 total, 9/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on May 22, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Ivory Snow is the first splitter crack right of Pillow Case. It starts off fingers then grows to thin hands. When the angle eases off the crack pinches down and face moves put you near the top. Finish on a broken crack to the canyon rim.

I have seen this route rated anywhere from 5.10- to 5.11-. The start is hard, consisting of fingers with OK feet. Once past the first 20' the moves start to flow.

Protection

A few Stoppers
TCU's with doubles of Yellow Metolius Size
.5 - #2 Camalot

Photos

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Paul Davidson  
5.11+
We didn't call it 10+ on the FA.
11+ was closer to what the actual moves felt like by the time I had gear placed I was willing to lead off. SMC cam locks can be tricky to place (as I recall anyway.) Took a couple of falls (not falls, burn outs from placing gear and lowering.) At that time I was not falling on 10+ cracks. I think this 10+ thing came from Toula's Cheap guide. Don't know if he'd climbed it though or instead just looked at it and rated it. Looks like 10+ might be right.

My overall rememberance of this crack is that it pissed me off. It looks like a "reasonable" forks finger crack. bwaaa ha ha ha, woke us right up with its difficulty. kinda painful I seem to recall.

Something for forks junkies though. (BTW - Jim and Tim would need to chime in on this, but it seems like I did this with Tim belaying me.) Aug 14, 2012
I heartily agree with JJ and Kole, this is damn hard for 10+. But is nice to climb when you're looking for more on the pillow wall. May 22, 2008
Just for a little historical perspective- this was one of the Forks climbs that was put up pre-TCU's (smallest cam at the time was the #1 Friend). So Paul protected the crux on wired hexentrics and wired SMC Camlocks (anybody ever see one of these- funky!). Oct 28, 2007
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
Personally I think this climb is harder than Davidson's Dihedral just to the left. More on par with Mutiny. It may be just a boulder problem, but its a damn hard boulder problem. Jun 23, 2007
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Hard to grade for sure... Using some hooks on the arete to the left makes is easier. Fun and worth it despite its diminuitive size... Jun 22, 2007