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Routes in The East End

Barn Dance S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barnie's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dead Dog Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Lane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow Left AKA Pietro Loves Iris S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prow Right AKA Dead Dog Arete AKA Gene Machine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roof Burner S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunburst S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thief of Wives V7 7A+ PG13
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 2,214 total, 16/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


99 Opinions

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Description

Before the MN/WI guidebook came out this route was simply called "Everybody's First Lead", and for good reason. With time and all the kicking sticky-rubber feet, the route has become slick and polished. Go around the corner from the spraypainted flag to the right, this route is to the right of Left Lane, and goes up the arete and face. Memorable only in that it probably was your first lead. Right?

  • RCM&W #56, p. 126

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
BryanE
Minneapolis, MN
 
BryanE   Minneapolis, MN
 
Lead this my first day leading outside. Also lead Jenna's Chimney before this. I agree that Jenna's Chimney would be a better first lead. Super polished holds on both but the arete on Sunburst seems like a sketchier place to fall for a first leader. Fun little route, but nothing too special. Apr 21, 2015
rooooock
Oakland, California
 
rooooock   Oakland, California
 
I enjoyed this climb. I never felt sketched out on it, and every move felt easy. That said this route isn't at my max ability. If 5.7 or 5.8 is your max, it may not be a great first lead. Oct 6, 2014
Christopherjohnson717
Madison
  5.8 PG13
Christopherjohnson717   Madison
  5.8 PG13
Great view from the top, but the holds are way to polished to still consider this a 5.7. The protection is well placed. Nov 22, 2013
Arthur Morris
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Arthur Morris   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
You'll enjoy this route a lot more if it's not your first lead, and if you don't plan on it being 5.7. I didn't see the loose block the Garrett mentioned, that certainly doesn't mean he's wrong.

I thought that the last moves to the anchor made for a solid 5.8 crux, I gave it 5.8+ because my arms are rather longer than the average bear's and I often reach through cruxes and then get yelled at.

I didn't mind the polish as the holds are still super positive and now very skin friendly. I'm sure if I thought it was a 5.7 and was cruxing out on all the rest holds I'd agree with all the folks who gave this a bomb. Jun 23, 2013
James Anderson
Minneapolis, Minnesota
5.7+
James Anderson   Minneapolis, Minnesota
5.7+
Lead this for the first time today, definitely the most polished route I've done. First three clips slippery but a bit better at the end when it gets harder. Apr 24, 2011
Landstrykar
  5.7+
Landstrykar  
  5.7+
I agree with Sonnabend. I lead this a couple days ago (my second outdoor lead ever) and although it's definitely slick, in the grand scheme of things, it's not that bad. Even where it's polished there's usually at least one good handhold or a big ledge for your feet, and all of the clipping stances felt really solid. However, on the day I climbed it was a perfectly sunny day with mild temps and the crag was very dry; I'm sure that more adverse conditions would make this feel a lot more sketchy. Also, I'm 6'1" so shorter climbers may have a different experience.

I would also agree that the rating is now probably more like 5.7+. If you're looking for your first lead, go around the corner for Cinq Jour, or head over to Jenna's Chimney, and come back to this one when you're ready for a bit more of a mental challenge. Nov 9, 2010
Sonnabend
West Saint Paul, MN
  5.7+
Sonnabend   West Saint Paul, MN
  5.7+
This really isn't as bad as everyone says. Yes, it probably goes a bit harder than a 5.7 now that the feet have gotten polished but I wouldn't give it a "bomb" rating.
I set this up as a top rope last week and none of the 4 or 5 people that top roped it (on my gear) after me complained about the route.
This really isn't a great first lead anymore, but still worth climbing. Aug 9, 2010
Harder than 5.7, and ugly. So worn and destroyed that it must be a different climb than it used to be. Dirty, sketchy moves. Scrambling necessary over the slabby part of the arette. The protection's actually alright, though, so that's something. Aug 1, 2010
So replace them... Apr 6, 2009
Eric Friday
  5.7
Eric Friday  
  5.7
There are a lot of polished holds on this route, but it has a few fun movies. Lots of nasty falls for the beginning leader mixed with polished holds makes this route less than desirable. Locking 'biners at the top are starting to get really worn (Apr. 09). Apr 5, 2009
lots of big stuff falls outta here on a regular basis, just look at all of the microwave sized blocks around the base...stay away Jul 1, 2007